Day 14 San Anton ruins

Rose window had multiple tau crosses. It looked beautiful against the blue sky. Regret somewhat not taking photo of this particular shot as I walk away from the ruins, but I never backtrack on the Camino unless I think I am lost. If I think I forgot something, I still don't go back. Always move forward, that's my Camino thus far.

Day 14 Castrojeriz

<p>My favorite town thus far. It's a fairytale layout. Castle on top of a hill, 3 churches and a convent nearby. Super fantastic municipal albergue. The lady below is Consuelo, who I met at the convent during Rosary. Consuelo is such a fitting name. She was one of my great consolations in this journey rife with desolations. We walked to mass at San Juan where she explained the tapestries to me there. She invited me to her house for sweets, milk, and even packed some jamon for me to go. What a delight it was to try her homemade jam as well as those made by the nuns. Her husband Emilio was also quite funny, talking about inequality in society and about preferring dogs (or TV) the more one knows about humans.</p>
<p>When I was at mass at the Santa Clara convent of the immaculate conception (I think...will revise later if wrong) where I chatted with 2 sisters, maria Jesus and Felicia? They were so kind, giving me a tau cross, a cross connected with the Franciscans, with healing, and I guess the camino. They also offered me a book but i refused because of the weight. Maybe i shouldnt have? I had nothing and they gave me everything.</p>

Day 13 Hornillos

<p>&lt;p&gt;Did I mention that all I had to eat during my longest day yet yesterday was a small box of tic tacs? No bakeries or markets were open when I passed by. I didn't have time for food at a bar. &lt;/p&gt;<br>
&lt;p&gt;Up to now I've been able to avoid stepping into large piles of poop. However, on my way out of Burgos, I stepped into some fresh fecal matter. I laughed to myself because stepping in this reminded me of the metaphor that some people and events are like poo. You try to avoid these piles of yuckiness, but sometimes you just step right into it. All you can do is wash it off with water, rub the sole against things like wet grass, and just keep walking. Eventually the stink of that incident will go away.&lt;br&gt;<br>
&lt;/p&gt;<br>
I ate breakfast by the river and passerbys kept staring strangely at me. Honestly I now feel more kindred in spirit with the beggars in front of the churches than normal pedestrians in normal clothes who just whiz by or stare without greeting me. At least the beggars say hello to me like I'm a normal person... even if it is just to get more money.<br>
I visited the monastery of Las huelgas. Finding it was a little adventure as well. Wow, I was super impressed by some of the fine mudejar details on the ceilings here and horseshoe arches. Too bad pics were not allowed. Guided tour only and it was in castellano. 1 hr.</p>
<p>Finished walking at 8:20. I thought I'd never walk in the dark again. People kept stopping me trying to chat for a while, and when you add up all these minutes, it becomes an hour or two. I will now add in talk time when calculating how long it will take me to get from point a to b. This is now the 5th day of walking in the dark. Yesterday must have been strenuous because when I walked in the night today, I could feel my knees buckling and giving way as I stumbled and tripped every so often going down a rocky hill to get into hornillos. Perhaps i made 5he wrong choice of not staying in burgos another night (where i would hhave been able to attend pilgrims mass like I originally wanted- what if it had been amazing with some cool event with blessings and other things? Perhaps I could have even met pati again and not go at this alone!)I should have looked into that choice, rather than just deciding to continue for greed of covering more ground and not wanting to waste the days I had gained by walking a lot. What would I do wwith those extra days anyway that would be a part of my inner reflection? It's not like I would become any wiser with a few extra days.  Hill+night=very dangerous combo. Never again. Using your own light solely is never as good as using the sun to light the way. Thankfully I had a nearly full moon to the back of me coming in and out of the clouds dimly lighting the path ahead. When I started the Camino in sjpp there had been barely a sliver of a moon. I'm also reminded of the representations of mary as the moon and jesus as the sun.  Another beautiful saying by st. Gregory the great, not related but, worth mentioning, </p>
<p>Village was quiet with no open businesses, no people on the streets and albergue was locked. I waited for someone to come out of their home to see if anyone in town had the key. One crazy looking lady told me to just keep walking. I did NOT want to walk 12more km. In the dark it would take forever.&#160; I also didnt want to sleep outside. Then I waved down a car. Driver was helpful and soon I climbed into my sleeping bag. Alone and prob the best sleep ive had so far.</p>

Day 12 Burgos

Today started out well with my other companion from the albergue Manuel buying and bringing me hot chocolate. So nice of him! I insisted on coming along with him to get my hot chocolate but he wouldn't hear of it, slamming the door closed quickly so that I couldn't get out of the dormitory in time (I'm slow, my legs only go so fast) and running off to the bar by himself to get himself a coffee and me a drink. Woods were also great in the beginning for walking and I could smell the fresh air. It was so warm that I could see the dew on the grass (usually there is frost in the morning). I met a nice old man on the way who told me he had walked the camino over 10 times, and then we proceeded to talk for probably half an hour about faith, God and the Camino. At 84, he wanted to walk the Camino one more time, but he said that his friends tell him he's crazy. Hah. He told me that the Burgos municipal albergue was very good, so I considered Burgos more seriously. However, I didn´t want to walk one more day during the night. I had already walked 3 nights in the dark. It was no fun. I really didn´t want to walk in the dark anymore after the sun set, which is around 6pm. He gave me kisses on the cheeks as a good bye.

I was thinking of stopping in Ajes because I was a little tired and it was already 2pm, no way I could walk 25km in 4 hours, when I met a Basque bicyclist named John. He stopped to talk with me at the entrance to Ajes, letting me know about the perverted hospitalero and what he had seen the day after because he knew I had been in the albergue there the day before him (and John had seen me in Santo Domingo...apparently I´m known as the korean girl who speaks castellano).  He made sure to immediately report this hospitalero to the association so that there would be no more harassment and that he would be removed. Blah, I was so digusted and full of anger about hearing this, and what had possibly happened to all the unsuspecting, vulnerable lady victims (including myself) in the last few days (since the hospitalero would only be there 15 days then his volunteer time is done at the albergue), that I had to continue walking. I couldn´t stay in Ajes with all my anger bottled in. So I walked 25 more kilometers to Burgos. And boy were those km painful. At times, I was yellling, banging my walking stick from disgust, just angry. Then I became sad there are people in this world who choose to do bad, evil things. Then, I just really wanted to reach the Burgos Cathedral, so that I could rest, the intense anger a more distant memory than the immediate pain of my feet. I got into the albergue at 8:30pm - wouldn´t have been able to find the albergue if not for John standing outside smoking. Yay, mi amigo! I launched myself to give him a huge hug because I was so happy to see him, meaning I had reached my stop for the night. Bed at last.

WARNING FOR LADIES
I was very very angry and a little scared to hear about the hospitalero who was volunteering at the albergue I had spent the night alone. FYI, this is a very rare case. Most hospitaleros are very nice, kind, safe and welcoming. Apparently this hospitalero was not. He was a pervert and peeping Tom. Because the camino had been so good to me thus far with many blessings, I was just nice to everyone and dropped my guard, esp since I assumed a hospitalero would be a person I could trust. Boy was I wrong. So, just make sure to be cautious when you´re travelling alone, and if something doesn´t feel right, make sure you leave the place since it could be your instincts kicking in. Trust your instincts. I didn´t listen to my instincts that time and felt a little creeped out by the hospitalero, and now I regret not just leaving as soon as I felt a little strange and unsafe. I had assumed the hospitalero was just overly friendly. He did however say some creepy things when translated into English, but I thought that perhaps it was just some culturally different expression. Looking back, it probably was just plain creepy no matter what language. Don't ever let others make you feel unsafe.

Day 11 Villafranca de Oca

   <p>30 km today. Finished walking through the La Rioja region a few km after Granon and entered the large autonomous region of Castilla y Leon. Passed through Belorado on the way, which feels like a  nice restful place. On the outskirts is a really peaceful Poor Clares convent where 21 sisters reside. I. Recharged my batteries in the chapel, which is the most restful place to date. Chatted a bit with a nun who answered my doorbell ringing (of course I couldn't see what she looked like) but she sounded very very kind, an interaction I treasure as a respite from the harshness of the camino. Asked me if I needed anything and gave me a stamp. I couldn't think of anything at the time, and didn't really have much to give either, only 20 euros left for my bed and meals,  with no atm in sight for days. Started feeling a bit like a mendicant.
Today is the 1st Friday of the month, so I thought I could find exposition and benediction of the Blessed Sacrament. Absolutely no luck. Sadness. Maybe it being the day of the 3 King Magi has something to do with no exposition?
Pilgrims used to get robbed in the forest around villafranca. Oh, the dangers.
One other person in albergue and hospitalera is super nice. Better than yesterday when I was the only person. It did feel a little creepy being alone with the hospitalero. Light rain. Tomorrow I only have 2 destination choices - Ajes 17 km away or Burgos 38 km away. I think 30 km per day might be my limit. 8 more km is 2-3 more hours of walking. My feet are so tender I can see all my veins and feel the shock of even the smallest gravel piece under my boot sole. Tomorrow is also Saturday, so I'm deciding whether I want to spend Sunday morning mass in Burgos or a small church along the way. I will probably decide as I walk past Ajes. The other peregrino wants to go to burgos, but he's much faster than I am. Hospitalera called him majo. Heh. </p>

Day 10 Santo Domingo de Cazalda

Left the rest of my new friends in Santo Domingo, including the Dutch family of 4 I hadn't seen since SJPP in France, Pati and Pepe the professor. Walking the Camino alone for now and continuing on to Granon. Santo Domingo is where a pilgrim was unjustly hanged and where a dead chicken came back to life proclaiming the pilgrim's innocence. 2 live chickens in the church! Hen and rooster.

Day 10 Granon

Eve of Day of the 3 King Magi, when they bring presents to the children. Village included me in the play/event/festivities. Church was the stage. I was St Joseph. Magi handed out presents and sweets to all the children. There was also hot chocolate and Christmas bread..or 3 kings bread?