Physical Journey Begins

Early morning flight to Seattle. Although I was here 2 weeks ago to visit my parents and to test out some gear in snow, I'm more excited about seeing them again than the Camino right now (prob nervousness).

Crossing the Columbia River at Dawn

such a familiar view

Did some gear shopping with the bro, then picked up a pound of apparently coffee beans with a rich, sweet flavor for the mom. Very Seattle, eh?

REI Seattle has a waterfall...

keeping shopping cozy w/ fireplace during the holidays - seriously this place is ridiculous

Plane or train from Paris to Biarritz/Bayonne and onward to SJPP?

PLANE
easyjet.com CDG->BIQ (Biarritz) ->SJPP via bus from Biarritz to Bayonne, then train from Bayonne to SJPP; taxi
--flying, you get there in 1.5 hours

TRAIN
TVG Paris (Montpernasse)->Bayonne->SJPP
--longer and you lose a day of walking, but I might be able to see more scenery along the way
--more time to prepare mentally for the Camino

This was a huge dilemma. I wanted to take the scenic route, but time is always so precious. When it came down to it, I chose the transportation method that was most cost-effective - the day train. Unfortunately, because I booked it less than 7 days in advance of my trip, I had to buy some expensive seats (so not worth it unless you're last minute and the trains are otherwise full...in my case, the TVG site gave a cheap internet fare option for a train that was already sold out in 2nd class seats (ie they show that you can book the ticket and lead you through the process, but then jilt you). So if you get a 'payment error' or your CC isn't processing, that is probably the reason. I only found out about those seats being sold out by calling Raileurope and asking why I couldn't book these). The train was still a few euros cheaper than the cost of shuttle (b/c public transpo doesn't run at 4am) + early plane (28(shuttle) + 99(flight) + 13 (bag fee). :( I hope I made the right choice. I am really helping the French economy right now.

Note to self: if you ever want to travel on the cheap, don't travel around the holidays in Europe. People close up shop and the transportation costs skyrocket.

Winter Packing (Gear) List

I'm trying to take whatever gear I already have that I wouldn't mind losing or burning. I did have to buy some new stuff though, sadly. I might edit this list as time goes on.

-backpack (Flash 65 from REI) - 2lb 14oz
-pack cover
-documents (credencial del peregrino, passport, cards/$, tix/confirmation #s)

-my trusty old hiking boots with ankle support
-flip flops (for showers)

-leg gaiters

-2 trekking poles
-wind-blocking gloves

-4 pairs Smartwool socks

-3 pairs sock liners

-1 pair polartec pants as midweight base layer

-1 pair rain/snow pants

-1 pair convertible pants

-1 quick dry turtleneck
-1 midweight wool base layer top & bottom 

-1 fleece tunic

-1 really old holey wool sweater

-1 jacket - I think it's the ski type, but who knows

-silk mummy liner 4.7 oz

-2 emergency blankets (is this being excessive?)

-2 big garbage bags

-travel towel

-sunglasses & glasses, 1 lightweight hard case

-bike light (thought of headlamp, but the bike light is way lighter, smaller, and does the flash blinking)

-small bar soap for all cleaning needs including clothes, hair, skin
-toiletries: sunscreen, Cetaphil lotion, 20spf lip balm, fem products
-roll paper towel w/ cardboard roll removed
-Brierley Camino guide
-January Magnificat + part of Dec
-rosary beads

-Camelbak bladder
-Katadyn MyBottle Water Purifier (in case i need to drink the rain :))
-2 pairs quick dry underwear (like ExOfficio)
-first aid stuff (moleskin, alcohol wipes)
-Swiss army knife - buy in Europe before starting trail
-lightweight journal & pen

Winter-Specific (for possibilities of cold, snowy conditions, few people to possibly help)
-compass & map (in case markers or paths are buried in snow)
-thermal bivy
-wool hat
-Turtle tube (scarf, hood scarf, ear covers all in one!)
-mobile phone (prob a must if you're doing the winter Camino so you can call 112 (emergency #) if needed
- -20F sleeping bag 3lb 7oz

TBD
-sleeping pad
-Yaxtrax due to an awesome person's rec! It should help quicken the pace when walking on ice.

Thinking, thinking, what can I remove to reduce weight?

Before leaving, I'll spray my jacket, pants, and backpack with Kiwi Camp Dry to waterproof them.

My Credecial

To obtain a Compostela and to sleep in the albergues (pilgrim houses), you need to have your Credencial del Peregrino, proving that you are a pilgrim. At each place you rest, you obtain a stamp that shows where you've been.

The people at American Pilgrims on the Camino were super helpful. I'd highly recommend going through your native country's association to obtain your credencial instead of picking it up in SJPP. Apparently, if you run out of room, you can also use blank paper for the sellos/stamps. Having the credencial now makes me feel like I'm already on my way. You can also have support before and after your Camino.



I love the Pilgrims Prayer found on the Credencial.

Codex Calixtinus, 12th century illuminated manuscript

God, You called your servant Abraham from Ur in Chaldea, watching over him in all his wanderings, and guided the Hebrew people as they crossed the desert. Guard these your children who, for the love of your Name, make a pilgrimage to Compostela. Be their companion on the way, their guide at the crossroads, their strength in weariness, their defense in dangers, their shelter on the path, their shade in the heat, their light in darkness, their comfort in discouragement, and the firmness of their intentions; that through your guidance, they may arrive safely at the end of their journey and, enriched with grace and virtue, may return to their homes filled with salutary and lasting joy.

Looking For A Place To Stay In Paris

I don't speak any French, but I need a place to stay on Christmas Eve. So, I used Google Translate to craft the following email that will hopefully be responded to. Here's hoping nothing translated badly! Will report back if I get any responses.

subj: 1 lit pour pèlerin de Décembre 24 à Décembre 25 ou 26?
Bonjour,

Je suis en pèlerinage religieux et souhaitez visiter et de rester 1 ou 2 nuits avec toi du 24 Décembre travers 25 ou 26. J'arriverai à Paris autour de 22h30 Décembre24. La maison mère des Filles de la Charité à Los Altos, en Californie, m'a informé que vous prenez chez les personnes qui ont besoin d'un endroit pour rester. Auriez-vous un lit pour moi pendant ce temps ou pensez-vous peut-être des arrangementspourraient être apportées? Si je ne peux pas rester avec vous, avez-vous des recommandations sur où d'autre je pourrais rester 1 ou 2 nuits où je pourrais être près de notre Seigneur? J'aimerais beaucoup l'amour pour assister à la veille de Noël et de la masse Journée à la chapelle de la Médaille Miraculeuse et saint Vincent de Paul.

Je suis une femme catholique dévot voyage de la Californie et la planificationde pèlerinage à travers la France et l'Espagne pour un mois. Je suis heureux defournir une référence à partir d'un prêtre à ma paroisse pour ma bonne réputation au sein de la communauté, si vous avez besoin. Je m'excuse pour mon mauvais français ... je suis en utilisant un traducteur d'écrire cela.

Que Dieu vous bénisse! Christina

Update: Got a brief reply back in French. Congregation of the Mission Maison-Mère on 95, rue de Sèvres is closed for the holidays. I wasn't very clear what the sister at the Sacre-Coeur Basilica in Montmatre meant when they wrote back in English, but I think she said I could only be there for 1 night (Christmas Day, and no Christmas Eve) for Adoration and a bed, 5 euros? It seems like the religious are understandably too busy to take in pilgrims on Christmas Eve.
I'm finally covered for Christmas Eve - staying right next to Cathedrale de Notre Dame since that was the only place in Paris I could find that had a true midnight mass (other places start at 10pm or 11pm), and I want to make sure I have enough time getting through security, navigating CDG, to the Paris center. I hope I get to catch the choir and organ-playing!

Why Do the Camino? Why Now?

My reasons for the Camino:

-Spiritual pilgrimage
-Penance perhaps for myself and others
-Doing something that REALLY pushes me out of my comfort zone both physically and mentally (I worry about catching hypothermia (I read on a forum about one man found in waist deep snow who died from hypothermia after getting separated from his companions in the dense fog), bed bugs (my worst nightmare next to mosquitos), stray dogs/wolves, people with ill intent)
-The Camino is a metaphor for life
-Honestly, I'm not really sure why I'm doing it. I hope God has something to do with it. Is walking the Camino a way to fill my pride and have a bragging right to say I'd walked so many miles in the dead of winter, when the Camino is supposedly the most challenging? I hope not. I've actually been having some bad physical reactions like loss of appetite and sleeplessness, probably due to my subconscious worrying. I'm a planner that likes to think of all potential problems A, B and C, and solutions A^2, B^2 and C^2. You can't really plan what's going to happen to you along the Camino...and carrying all your potential solutions would be too heavy.
-Losing a little 'cubicle/office' weight from the past 4 years of delicious Google food would be nice. ;)

Why Now?

-I'm young and have the physical ability to do this, blessed with all my limbs and health
-I have the time. I have a super-encouraging FF director that found me class coverage for my volunteer obligations. Au revoir my cute, but very energetic, munchkins! I also quit my job on September 21st because I felt like it was the right thing to do, that it was time to move onto something new...I just didn't know what. I left a simply great company and even more amazing colleagues and manager that really supported me throughout my career, but I was a bit tired, so I thought I'd travel - then traveled around California, Colorado, and routinely visited my home state too. By late November, I was honestly mentally ready to hit the pavement and work. I miss working! However, I knew I had to do something that I wouldn't be able to do due to vacation time restrictions when I'm gainfully employed again. Walking the Camino seemed like a good fit.
-On one hand, a winter Camino means that there are less albergues (pilgrim houses/hostels) and bars open, so you may have to walk further to have a place to stay (maybe even camp outside) and something to eat. If weather is bad, you might not be able to go certain routes. It's also cold so you have to carry more gear, adding to the weight of the pack you'll be carrying for a month. On the other hand, there are less people, less crowds, more silence to think, and less advance planning needed because one doesn't have to compete with others for a place to sleep.
-Of the 3 things I looked into, this pilgrimage seemed to work out the best for me on my timeline and people I asked help from were extremely speedy in responding.
-In my last trip to Europe 1-2 months ago, I kept walking and wandering. I didn't feel like I had reached an end point when I hopped on the plane back to San Francisco. Maybe I'm meant to walk more...approximately 500 miles more.
-I turned down a job offer so that I could do a pilgrimage that would give God space to direct me in any direction he wanted me to go, as opposed to me choosing a path before I even took the time to try listening to him. Right now, I don't have anything to come back to - and this is how I want to arrive at the end of the Camino (if God wills that happens) - not worrying and thinking about a job to do after I come back, but rather, to go forth and do whatever I'm inspired to do after my walk.

Hello Again Europe, I'll See You Next Week

I'm not sure why I'm back in Europe again after being there last month. Why not Africa or Antarctica? Well, I could go to those places in 2-3 weeks, as opposed to needing 35-40 days. I definitely want to do the Ultimate Sahara trek. There is much still on the list for travel some other time. Always good to dream of exotic locations you haven't been to yet!

After thinking and over-thinking about whether I wanted to walk the Camino de Santiago, aka 'The Way of St. James', I finally booked my tickets to Paris this week. I will fly from Seattle into Paris on Christmas Eve and most likely stay in the city of light on Christmas as well. I hate that I can't be with my family during this time, but it was a personal choice on whether I would want enough time to start in St. Jean Pied de Port and finish the Camino. So I'm flying into Seattle this Tuesday, spend a few days with my folks, then off I go. TBD on where I will be spending La Nochebuena, but maybe a Parisian will take in a pilgrim alone and with no French language skills to speak of, parlez vous anglais? :)