Day 4 a puente la reina

Met carmen and she and Kari walked in the afternoon along the straightest path. I Took detour to Eunate. Feet still good, if a little swollen.

Day 3 Pamplona and Cizur Menor

Weather: cloudy, light rain, muddy
body condition: all good; no blisters still, knees don.t hurt, but the soles of my feet are still killing me! <i thought my feet were good until mid-afternoon when I was walking on asphalt and concrete for the rest of the way. Should I wait out the pain hoping to adjust, or should I lighten my pack?

We walked at least 35 km today from Zubiri to Cizur Menor. left at 9am. arrived at 6pm.

Pati told me of the dream she had of me-apparently I was taking gold out of my backpack to lighten the load. Up to you, me and time on the Camino to really tell me what that means or what it´s a metaphor of.

Worries of bedbugs and other paranoias (like washing hands with soap before eating) don´t really grip me as much anymore since getting to the next point and the pain is more front of mind than slowing down.

As we walked from Trinidad del Arre to Pamplona, seeing the medieval town up on the hill was such a beautiful sight to behold. Pictures wouldn´t do it justice. We didn´t realize it was Pamplona until we were right in the city and had walked a few hundred meters.

CULTURE and IDENTITY

As we walked the Camino today, Pati (who´s from Guadalajara, Mexico) and I shared stories about our family history and I told her a little about the history of Japan, Korea, China and their relationships with one another. The reason I started talking about this was because of the numerous occasions where people would mistake me for Chinese, and how I didn´t really like that.

I am Korean-American; not Korean, not Chinese. I wanted to be in my Camino bubble and avoid talking to people unless I really had to. But I realized yesterday and today that I shouldn´t avoid chances to educate people about different cultures (ie when I hear people saying and assuming I´m Chinese I will now say, "no, no soy chino, soy coreano-americano. originalmente, mi familia es de corea, pero yo naci en los estados unidos y soy americano". Patti confirmed this thought with me. I guess I can think of it as a service for the world and individuals who would be otherwise ignorant that there are other East Asian-looking people besides Chinese people out there.  the issue of identity is is very important to me. You can´t call me Korean because I´m not from Korea and I don´t belong there (believe me, I know, I´ve spent many months over the years there)

JAMON

My love affair with jamon iberico continues. today, i believe i had the best tasting jamon iberico in my life. gracias a pamplona.

Cizur Menor: albergue maribel roncal is run by a very very nice lady. highly recommend staying here. the restaurant to the right as you walk down the hill in front of the albergue also had a wonderful menu del dia for only 10 euros! really tasty macarone with a tomato red wine garlic olive oil sauce, some fish and helado!

Puerta Francia leading into Pamplona old town

Pamplona Cathedral and prob one of the streets where they do the Running of the Bulls during San Fermin

trees at the University of Navarre

the best jamon iberico bellota I´ve ever had in my life,  hand carved with just the right amounts of fat in each delicious bite

Day 2 Roncesvalles to Zubiri

<p>clear morning, cloudy afternoon and very light rain. Muddy, frosty, very little leftover snow. The clouds moved in quickly. Walked with Patti from Roncesvalles to Zubiri. This industrial town doesn't seem friendly at all to pilgrims- I can see why the guides recommend pushing on to Larrasoana. Don't stay here if you can help it. No albergues are open right now. We stopped by the bar on your left after u cross the roman bridge and go to the church. The locals saw us and complained "oh no they're here to use the bathroom" like we were pests (this perception probably arises because previous pilgrims were not respectful and because of the speaker's own prejudices and blanket generalization ). No, we didn't use the bathroom, just asked a question on open albergues. Even the girl behind the counter gave us the wrong info. We had to walk all the way across town for a room at the bar for 50 euros for a double. Room is nice but Highway robbery when compared to a bed for 5-10 euros. I think I could have pushed on to Larrasoana, especially at my normal pace, but I went my companion's speed and didn't want to leave her alone her first day walking. Knees were also prob happy. No coincidence that she and I are both headed to Santiago and are flying out the same morning as well. She had to decide whether to start from sjpp or roncesvalles, but took my rec into consideration of starting by 9 in sjpp. She couldn't find any taxis from roncesvalles that early so started with me. I think I gave her a sound rec</p>

This is where stage 2 begins in the Codex Calixtinus

Camino Frances Day 1 St Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles

DAY 1 December 27
weather and roads clear. I think today is an auspicious day to start the Camino- feast of st. John, brother of st. James who I'm heading towards. Man at pilgrims office in St Jean said only to take the Valcarlos route through the Pyrenees, not the Napoleon- he wouldn't even confirm the weather up there with me and said he wouldn't be responsible if I took that route. I think he meant well since he saw that I was solo. Family friends don't call me "mountain girl" for nothing...at least I hoped so.
6 others at the albergue, including a sweet Dutch family with 2 kids, 10&13, doing the Camino for 2 weeks. The father let me know the weather would be good today. I decide to walk the Napoeon route to Roncesvalles.
30 min. after I started the Camino at 8am stopping by the church st jean to say a quick prayer, I see 2 Valencian ladies that left the albergue before me, on the same route. Reassuring. Steep climb and this pack of 20-something pounds feels like a sack of sand. I'm making good time. It is beautiful! Blue blue skies. If I do get stuck in the mountains, looks like it will be clear for the night. Feeling some hot spots and moleskin the areas at Pic D'Orisson.
Near Cruceiro, take a turn off that I thought the guidebook had said was the shortcut. It's not. I actually end up using my compass because the winter sun is a little funny. Throughout the detour, I go with what I FEEL is right. Right on the paths I take I encounter full skeletons of a horse and sheep, with, fortunately, very little flesh left on them. Looks like winter caught them. Maybe I should turn back to where I came from, but it feels right to continue on. Long story short, I find my way to Cruceiro after a long detour circling another mountain and following a thin cattle? path not meant for humans. Not much ground gained. Sun is fortunately still high in the sky and looks like I could make it to RONCESVALLES before dark.
I make it to Col de Lepoeder and walk through some snow and ice, then go down through the woods of Irati. My feet are starting to hurt a lot and a thick layer of dry beech leaves obscure the path so I try to walk in areas where the trees seem a little more spaced out than the surroundings. When will it end??
I walk up to town as it gets dark and a group of policemen are just staring at me from the top of the hill. I say hello and they say buona sera. They continue to stare as I turn the corner and head for the pilgrims office.
Pilgrims mass in Roncesvalles presided over by 4 very in tune and musical priests. Seriously, they sing in harmony and in rounds! Their voices filled the church in a way that only the best acoustics could produce. Mass is in a mix of Castellano and Latin. It truly was a beautiful mass and we pilgrims got our blessing. Santa Maria church is small but gorgeous ma
Bleh menu del peregrin. Not worth the 9 euros, but the fellow pilgrim company was good! Met Patti and David, among others. David was curious about my emergency bivy sack. I wouldn't recommend it-collects way too much condensation. 13 at albergue in Roncesvalles. Most are Spaniards doing 3 day treks. Longest length 2 weeks.

Paris>Bayonne>St Jean

Train ride from Bayonne to St Jean Pied de Port very scenic and highly recommended. Sit on right side of train to be next to the river scenes. Guy across from me tried to get on the train with an invalid ticket. He ended up paying. Asked me if I was Chinese. One of many times. Don't peeps know the Chinese don't really walk the Camino, at least not for now?  Maybe I just really look Chinese. Another larger man a few seats away slapped his thighs loudly in rhythm to a song he was humming. Hilarious ride. Also saw grandpas playing bocce and 2 boys playing in the golden field
TVG ride to Bayonne not worth the time if you're already familiar with the French or similar countryside - it was a little monotonous except for the family of five that sat next to me. 2 year olds scream and cry a lot - corporal punishment was applied to them often. I generally love children so much I like to spend my weekends with them, but, I would rather fly next time.

A Paris Christmas

Christmas Eve
21:35 CDG- get bag off conveyor belt
21:45 take CD VAL shuttle from t1 to t2
22:30 hop off RER B at Notre Dame and see long queue already forming for midnight mass. Thankfully staying right on the same square as the cathedral. Throw bags into room and queue up for mass.
24:00 Midnight mass! The choir singing was a great precursor
Christmas DAY
01:50 Notre Dame's bells are ringing like crazy! Joy tremendously fills my heart. Legs hurt from standing at mass b/c there was no space to sit (also barely made into cathedral)
02:00 see three handcuffed  men guarded by police in the ER
02:30 sleep
09:00 cathedral bells wake me up
09:30 Laud morning prayer
10:00 Gregorian mass - choir is amazing
14:00 meet 2 nice Mormon missionaries from Idaho Falls and Park City who steer me away from pickpockets (not that I had anything valuable)
15:45 run to get in line for organ concert. Yay this time I get a seat. Sit with kind folks from Canton and Charleston. Organist and organ are top class-a must hear in Paris
17:45 Vespers evening prayer

Paris Christmas Photos

Frankfurt Christmas Eve

<p>The city is pretty dead. Most shops are closed through the 26th. Only a handful of cafes, bakeries and tourist shops open.</p>
<p>One wonderful tradition here is the pealing of the bells from 10 churches in harmony, which happens 4 times a year(eve before Pentecost, Easter eve, 1st Advent eve, Christmas eve. You can hear this from anywhere near the churches. People gather in Roman square, bring cookies and warm drinks to share with others around them.

Why Choose To Be Away From Family?

Especially on Christmas? That's just how it worked out.  Parents are working then. :(  When they retire, they really deserve rest and fun for helping out the US economy. Christmas is really about celebrating Christ anyway, no? So happy birthday Jesus-my present to you and the world-walking the Camino.

We're never really alone. By coincidence I ran into an old business colleague on the Frankfurt shuttle from our plane to the int'l terminal. I sat down in a seat right next to the doors, and there he was right in front of my face. I knocked on the Plexiglas and smiled and waved, trying to get his attention. No response. Hmmm, maybe it was a case of mistaken identity. I didn't think he would have a reason to be in Seattle so I was definitely not expecting him on that plane! The Germany part made sense though since he had been part of the European team I worked with way back when. Should I loudly declare his name? Bit my knuckles in contemplation. Heck, why not? At worst, this German dude would never see me again, but at best I could chat a bit with an old acquaintance. Wow, of all things!  Good thing it was him,  otherwise the lady next to me might have thought I was completely deranged...shouting, waving, smiling and staring at strangers while in airplane bed head mode.

I saw an IVE sister at the SEA airport too. Thought it would be strange for her though if I approached since she didn't know me. Maybe I should have. What if she had been lost? I need to work on heeding and acting on that small voice inside.

Below, pics of my brother saying bye (he's the quiet type), view of the Cascade mountain range (great place for alpine training), and saying hello/goodbye to Omid in Frankfurt (Christmas lights and 'Germany & More' sign in background).

Reporting From SEA

Packing until the last minute, but was way early to airport. There was barely a line early afternoon today, but it was apparently super busy earlier according to a security guard. What luck!

Had to check in my bag and trekking sticks. It was too bulky, but Lufthansa provided a big plastic bag for the bag so that straps wouldn't get caught and tear, yay.

Downside is that US Bank has a monopoly on ATMs in SEA. $3 use fee.

What is the Camino?

Friend W kindly pointed out that I might want to explain what the Camino is. The Camino de Santiago (Santiago aka San Diego, San Iago, St. James) is actually a network of routes that pilgrims from around Europe have taken for over 1000 years. The goal/end point of pilgrimage is to get to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela, a city in the northwest corner of Spain within the Galician region. This spot (the ground underneath) is where St. James the Apostle (cousin of Jesus) is supposed to have been buried. You can visit his relics by taking a few steps down to the sanctuary within the cathedral. Pope John Paul II visited and prayed here in 1982 while on an apostolic visit and in 1989 for World Youth Day. Pope Benedict XVI visited during Holy Year 2010. It is a Holy Year at Santiago whenever the Feast of St. James (July 25) falls on a Sunday. You'll see the # of pilgrims shoot up on any given Holy Year, probably to gain a plenary indulgence. More on that here. And no, neither 2011 nor 2012 are Holy Years. :)

Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela (thank you whoever took this photo on the Fr. Walter pilgrimage!)

A pilgrimage always starts at one's doorstep. However, nowadays, there are some classic starting points within Europe (since people fly, train and sail to get to Europe...swimming might be interesting too). Think Saint Jean-Pied de Port, Roncesvalles, Somport, Porto. Some notable routes are the Camino Frances (most developed and the one I'm taking), Le Puy, Camino del Norte, Camino Portugues, Via de la Plata, and Camino Aragones. The distance you cover really depends on where you want to start. You can walk, cycle, or ride on horseback to get to Santiago to obtain your Compostela, a document issued by the Catholic Church to pilgrims who have completed the last 100km by foot/200km by bike/horse and do the Camino for religious reasons. Of course, many people travel much more than this. Once you get to Santiago, you can also keep walking to Finisterre, the End of the World, 90 km (56 miles) away. There, you really have to stop unless you know how to walk on water. Joke intended. :)

More people in these times probably walk it for spiritual or other reasons (losing some weight, doing something physically taxing, wanting time to think and reflect on an important issue they have in their lives) rather than religious. Dutch juveniles can also walk the Camino starting from Amsterdam? in lieu of a jail sentence (correct me if I got something wrong here)! They say the Camino is magical and that it will change you.

Does the idea of the Camino keep floating back into your head? I kept researching, putting it on the back-burner thinking that I should wait a few years for a better time, then started making inquiries because of the eternal question 'what if'. Things just rolled on nicely from there. If everything goes smoothly, perhaps you're meant to go a certain direction. Take that first step to start and research the Camino to see if it's something you might want to do, just like anything in life. No excuses.

Last Minute Preparations

Met with lawyer today to write a will in that very slim chance something might happen (I needed to do this anyway. A little neurotic, perhaps, but don't want to take any chance of turning my assets over to the State b/c I was unprepared!). I was asked "Do you want to be cremated or buried?" Heh. I've definitely discussed this with friends, but twas a strange feeling to set the answer in legal stone, lol.

Bought travel insurance through worldnomads.com since it's been recommended by Lonely Planet. Who doesn't love them? :) Easy peasy buying process.

Testing Out Pack

Went on father/daughter hike today to see how my pack & weight felt. Not bad if I take it slow. I think I will take out my vest and purifier water bottle, but adding yaxtrax-type non-skid shoe add-on. Raiding dad's gear stash for last minute items, yay.

trail of clouds leading to sunset

dad's camera shy