DAY 1 December 27
weather and roads clear. I think today is an auspicious day to start the Camino- feast of st. John, brother of st. James who I'm heading towards. Man at pilgrims office in St Jean said only to take the Valcarlos route through the Pyrenees, not the Napoleon- he wouldn't even confirm the weather up there with me and said he wouldn't be responsible if I took that route. I think he meant well since he saw that I was solo. Family friends don't call me "mountain girl" for nothing...at least I hoped so.
6 others at the albergue, including a sweet Dutch family with 2 kids, 10&13, doing the Camino for 2 weeks. The father let me know the weather would be good today. I decide to walk the Napoeon route to Roncesvalles.
30 min. after I started the Camino at 8am stopping by the church st jean to say a quick prayer, I see 2 Valencian ladies that left the albergue before me, on the same route. Reassuring. Steep climb and this pack of 20-something pounds feels like a sack of sand. I'm making good time. It is beautiful! Blue blue skies. If I do get stuck in the mountains, looks like it will be clear for the night. Feeling some hot spots and moleskin the areas at Pic D'Orisson.
Near Cruceiro, take a turn off that I thought the guidebook had said was the shortcut. It's not. I actually end up using my compass because the winter sun is a little funny. Throughout the detour, I go with what I FEEL is right. Right on the paths I take I encounter full skeletons of a horse and sheep, with, fortunately, very little flesh left on them. Looks like winter caught them. Maybe I should turn back to where I came from, but it feels right to continue on. Long story short, I find my way to Cruceiro after a long detour circling another mountain and following a thin cattle? path not meant for humans. Not much ground gained. Sun is fortunately still high in the sky and looks like I could make it to RONCESVALLES before dark.
I make it to Col de Lepoeder and walk through some snow and ice, then go down through the woods of Irati. My feet are starting to hurt a lot and a thick layer of dry beech leaves obscure the path so I try to walk in areas where the trees seem a little more spaced out than the surroundings. When will it end??
I walk up to town as it gets dark and a group of policemen are just staring at me from the top of the hill. I say hello and they say buona sera. They continue to stare as I turn the corner and head for the pilgrims office.
Pilgrims mass in Roncesvalles presided over by 4 very in tune and musical priests. Seriously, they sing in harmony and in rounds! Their voices filled the church in a way that only the best acoustics could produce. Mass is in a mix of Castellano and Latin. It truly was a beautiful mass and we pilgrims got our blessing. Santa Maria church is small but gorgeous ma
Bleh menu del peregrin. Not worth the 9 euros, but the fellow pilgrim company was good! Met Patti and David, among others. David was curious about my emergency bivy sack. I wouldn't recommend it-collects way too much condensation. 13 at albergue in Roncesvalles. Most are Spaniards doing 3 day treks. Longest length 2 weeks.
weather and roads clear. I think today is an auspicious day to start the Camino- feast of st. John, brother of st. James who I'm heading towards. Man at pilgrims office in St Jean said only to take the Valcarlos route through the Pyrenees, not the Napoleon- he wouldn't even confirm the weather up there with me and said he wouldn't be responsible if I took that route. I think he meant well since he saw that I was solo. Family friends don't call me "mountain girl" for nothing...at least I hoped so.
6 others at the albergue, including a sweet Dutch family with 2 kids, 10&13, doing the Camino for 2 weeks. The father let me know the weather would be good today. I decide to walk the Napoeon route to Roncesvalles.
30 min. after I started the Camino at 8am stopping by the church st jean to say a quick prayer, I see 2 Valencian ladies that left the albergue before me, on the same route. Reassuring. Steep climb and this pack of 20-something pounds feels like a sack of sand. I'm making good time. It is beautiful! Blue blue skies. If I do get stuck in the mountains, looks like it will be clear for the night. Feeling some hot spots and moleskin the areas at Pic D'Orisson.
Near Cruceiro, take a turn off that I thought the guidebook had said was the shortcut. It's not. I actually end up using my compass because the winter sun is a little funny. Throughout the detour, I go with what I FEEL is right. Right on the paths I take I encounter full skeletons of a horse and sheep, with, fortunately, very little flesh left on them. Looks like winter caught them. Maybe I should turn back to where I came from, but it feels right to continue on. Long story short, I find my way to Cruceiro after a long detour circling another mountain and following a thin cattle? path not meant for humans. Not much ground gained. Sun is fortunately still high in the sky and looks like I could make it to RONCESVALLES before dark.
I make it to Col de Lepoeder and walk through some snow and ice, then go down through the woods of Irati. My feet are starting to hurt a lot and a thick layer of dry beech leaves obscure the path so I try to walk in areas where the trees seem a little more spaced out than the surroundings. When will it end??
I walk up to town as it gets dark and a group of policemen are just staring at me from the top of the hill. I say hello and they say buona sera. They continue to stare as I turn the corner and head for the pilgrims office.
Pilgrims mass in Roncesvalles presided over by 4 very in tune and musical priests. Seriously, they sing in harmony and in rounds! Their voices filled the church in a way that only the best acoustics could produce. Mass is in a mix of Castellano and Latin. It truly was a beautiful mass and we pilgrims got our blessing. Santa Maria church is small but gorgeous ma
Bleh menu del peregrin. Not worth the 9 euros, but the fellow pilgrim company was good! Met Patti and David, among others. David was curious about my emergency bivy sack. I wouldn't recommend it-collects way too much condensation. 13 at albergue in Roncesvalles. Most are Spaniards doing 3 day treks. Longest length 2 weeks.
Christina!!!! I was flying home from florida, and during the flight they showed the film 'The Way'. I think I saw the same statue in the film as in your pictures, and I cannot believe that you are doing the same trek! and alone! You must have a will of steel! The best of adventures, can't wait to hear your stories, and I hope you have a great New Year!
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