Los Altos Poor Clare (Colettine) Immaculate Heart Monastery

This is a wonderful monastery filled with holy women in Los Altos Hills, CA. I often see bunnies and deer in the morning and the up here is great too. Their website, created for them by someone I is here (but they don't take emails, so phone calls or snail mail is the way to go if you have prayer requests): http://poorclares.wordpress.com/

Daily Mass: 7am

Also can hear daily Matins, Terce, None, Vespers, Compline - as they are always on the other side of the chapel :)

They offer great Franciscan/Claretian spirituality books and handmade cards.

About a Year Since Starting the Camino

I can't believe it's already been 1 year and 3 days since I started walking my Camino. That time period feels so distant, yet not long ago. I do not regret my decision to make this pilgrimage, and yet, I sometimes wonder about how much I've changed, or remained the same. Transformation is a process that does not usually happen in an instant. It requires perseverance, fortitude, and constant training. If we want to become the best we can be, growing our own, unique, and individual selves, we can't just assume that one gamble will pay off big. The odds are, it won't. However, the important thing is to make the best of each situation, seeing it as a moment of growth, and embracing whatever comes your way, doing the best you can in that situation.

After having worked at one headquarters for several years, I am still adjusting to a  new consultant lifestyle requiring constant weekly travel on the road..I guess becoming a road warrior? There are some things I learned on the Camino, which I find very useful flying here and there, everywhere around the US, especially as a woman with a formerly very extensive closet (although, even with the culling I did after I got back from the Camino, I still have a lot of clothes):

-Travel light - week-long and even 2-week long trips stuffed into 1 carry on size luggage and rolling briefcase. Never check in a bag.
-Not minding wearing the same outfits on a weekly basis, as long as they're washed and clean
-Quality over quantity
-Fabrics that provide warmth in cold and cooling in heat! I love silk because it provides this in layers.
-Moisture - airports and planes are extremely drying - I've fallen in love with Kiehl's In-Flight Refreshing Facial Mist and 24/7 Activated Moisturizer...love the scent. Also, for lips, I feel like I've tried everything under the sun (L'Occitane Shea lip, Burt's Bees, Vaseline, Eucerin, Chapstick)...and my battle with dry chapped lips continued, until I met Murad Skin &b Lip Therapy, which has been discontinued, but I hold onto the sample (in the toiletry kit on the flight to Paris) for emergencies.
-Make up - I didn't really carry any of this on the Camino, except some chapstick, but travelling professionally, I personally think I've become adept at bottling items I need into the quart-size bag for carry on. Also, after using liquid tinted moisturizers- have come to love powders because I'm not restricted to TSA regulation-size bottles (BareMinerals Originalis non-drying and has become my favorite!).

Also - travelling for a living is TOUGH. Hopping on a plane twice a week, I really have come to realize that when you travel, it isn't really about where you're at, but who you're with, the journey, and living in the moment, striving to be fully engaged with those around you. However, nothing beats time with your loved ones.

Feast of St. James

Today is the Feast of St. James. On this day, I remember all the pilgrims making their way to Santiago de Compostela. I admire the fact that people can make this pilgrimage in the heat - having to make sure they have enough water. That's one good thing about walking in winter - you really don't need to worry as much about being dehydrated and thirsty.

I can hear those bagpipes playing, church bells ringing, the swinging botafumeiro (large incense burner) and organ music. How lovely it must be.

Pilgrim's Bread

I haven't written in several months, but I thought to share this. I was spending some time with Our Lord in Adoration after work today, reading some of St. Thomas Aquinas' poetry and reflections on the Eucharist.  There's been a lot going on in my head lately, so praying and sitting there does me good.  I suddenly started daydreaming back to some moments on the Camino (I haven't ever really daydreamed about my Camino since I came back), including when the little dog starting following me probably around Day 25 or so...whichever day that was that I really felt like I had entered Galicia. I reflected again on that little dog, how persevering she was, even without knowing what it would be like at the end of her journey, over all those mountains. She had nothing to eat, refusing the few nuts and bread I tried feeding her, only lapping up some water I put into a little plastic cup, when I turned my back. At the seeming end of her journey, a couple hundred kilometers later, I encountered her again, in a place, if I remember correctly, had a name close to Rosary or Rosario, or perhaps Regina. She seemed so happy chasing white chickens on a farm. Random thoughts. Then I read that the word 'viaticum', 'supplies for the journey', can be also thought of as 'pilgrim's bread'. Not sure how right or theologically accurate this is, but of course, when you mention the word 'pilgrim', I think Camino! So, I had to make sure I wrote here! We are all pilgrims on this journey of life. The Eucharist is our sustenance, and when we eat of it with clean and pure hearts (+1 for Reconciliation), how great is the effect.

Becoming The Best You Can Be

I try to lead my life becoming a better person each and every day. Sometimes, I forget that one is only as strong as its weakest point. Every so often, I like to visualize myself as a human weapon, heh, as funny as that sounds. Being human, I have to take care of my mind, body and spirit. Why? To fight evil and save the world, of course. :) All three parts must be tended to and grown for one to be well-balanced. If I neglect one area, then I am only as strong as that weakest point.

Giving Thanks For the Simplest Things

When you acknowledge and give thanks for even the smallest things that put a smile on your face, the feeling of joy and happiness amasses in your heart. St. Clare said to notice even the smallest blade of grass and we can.

There is a Poor Clares monastery in Los Altos Hills, which I visited yesterday. They have no internet or TV. The only ways to contact them are through phone, snail mail or in person visit. Yet, the ladies here are so full of joy.

Look. Really Look.

So I went for a walk around Shoreline today. There were some beautiful flowering trees and scenes as the sun hit things at just the right angle. Too bad I didn't have anything to capture photos, right? Perhaps. Because I didn't have my camera, I had to really take in what I was seeing, memorizing the color, the shapes, the moment.

white sailboats, all without sails except 1
gray and blue sky
sun streaming from the right
emerald green grass, warm wind blowing gently
purple, pink, yellow puffy flowers dotting the trees
birds with shiny black glistening heads, pecking at the putting green

Do You Stop and Savor the Moment?

One of my favorite moments in spring is when I look up at the indigo sky and see white flower petals contrasted so shockingly against inky blackness. Flower fragrances intensify the warm evening air. What can be better than when rain has also just fallen, adding an enriching scent. This is spring at night in California.

During the day, flowering trees take on a more pure and innocent character. Petals blush pink and the visual details are a feast for the eyes. Next time you see something pretty, pause a moment. Breathe deeply and take it all in. You won't regret it.

Final Pack List

So I thought it would be useful for people to know what was in my backpack when I ended the Camino. A lot of my stuff was actually not new and I wouldn't recommend buying a whole new wardrobe for the trip. Use what you have if you can.

-REI Flash65 backpack (light, less than 3 lb) (I think I could have gone down to a 55L size)
-REI Expedition sleeping bag (honestly I was glad I had a super warm sleeping bag; even at nights I was too hot, being hot was much better than being too cold)
-pack cover
-2 hiking poles
-sleeping bag cover that came with my sleeping bag (I actually used this bag for holding my clothing/wearables)
-Granite Gear compression sack (22L size) for my sleeping bag
-3 pairs wool socks (burned holes in 1other pair on a radiator in Ferreiras)
-2 pairs REI synthetic liner socks (burned holes in 1 pair as well)
-synthetic turtleneck with wick-away fabric
-synthetic Columbia tunic fleece
-an old wool hat that covers ears I never really wore
-Turtle Fur neck gaiter (I used it for my head as a hat, as a gaiter
-OR glacier leg gaiters (great b/c they kept my pants cleaner longer and protect me from the cold)
-1 pair snow trax (only used one day)
-convertible, breathable long pants
-ski-type pants that were excellent in the rain
-1 wool base top and bottom for daytime wear, 1 synthetic polar-tec bottom as PJs
-ski jacket - jacket was def a little too heavy when I was moving, but when I was still, it was a godsend
-Asolo hiking boots with ankle support
-holey cashmere sweater
-2 pairs ExOfficio Give-n-Go underwear
-workout tank with built in bra
-emergency bivy sack
-2 emergency blankets (maybe this was a little too much)
-compass (only used that once through the Pyrenees)
-1 roll of toilet paper
-some feminine products (enough for 2 days)
-guidebook which I used in the beginning a lot, but then looked at it less and less as my Camino went on
-knife with 3 inch blade
-1st Aid kit (tums, anti-diarrhea medicine, advil, 3 pack moleskin, small scissors, bandages, alcohol wipes, anti-bacterial ointment, elastic bandage, wound dressing...I had a lot in a ziploc bag, thankfully didn't have to use it much, but glad I had it just in case)
-small travel sewing kit
-3oz sunscreen, 2 oz cetaphil lotion, 2 small toothpaste tubes, toothbrush, soap bar (i could have survived on half a full size bar)
-converter, phone charger, headphones
-a pair of earrings
-pen
-bikelight (so useful in the dark)
-flip-flops
-glasses and sunglasses
-hair ties and bobby pins
-snacks are essential if you are travelling around the holidays when stores are closed for vacation, but you don't need that much, just 1-2 day supply; my emergency energy bar was a baguette I'd buy whenever I came by a bakery (panaderia)...sometimes that baguette would be in my bag for 3-4 days
-gummy bear vitamins :)
-a candy bar (fast energy)
-big shell from Pablito; I used it once in a while to drink water with from a fountain
-blue ribbon from the midnight Christmas mass at Notre Dame in Paris
-1 big plastic water bottle
-2 trash bags

Camino Frances Maps

So, Tom said it was a little confusing to follow along with where I was exactly. Here are some links to maps of the Camino Frances route to give you a general idea:
http://www.santiago-compostela.net/frances/index_cf_en.html
http://www.elcaminosantiago.com/Camino-Santiago-Map-Camino-Frances-Google.htm
http://www.caminodesantiago.me/board/el-camino-frances/topic3963.html?sid=f248106c57e60a9dfed32ad9aa686690
You don't really need a map to walk the Camino, though it might help at times. Just follow the yellow arrow, white/red stripes, yellow/red stripes, or sometimes the green/white stripes in Navarra.

I'll also be cleaning my past entries up a bit and adding English translations for some of you who aren't so Spanish-literate. ;)

1 Week Back in US

Current event craziness. First, Giants winning against the Pats at Superbowl, then Linsanity esp in the Asian American community and the whole HHS Mandate debacle.

You gotta love California drivers. They cut you off so often. I even had one truck driver behind me speed up to get in front of me ( I was in a left turn lane), look both ways, then purposefully run a red light, going straight ahead. I wanted to report his rump but didn't get his license plate down on time. Now that I think about it, I should have just taken a photo. Doh. Spanish drivers are not nearly as aggressive. They were nice and let me cross whenever I was at a crosswalk.
Thought I'd add a photo of myself to prove I'm back in the Bay. ;) See, driving and wearing normal clothes! Regular clothes make me feel chilly. I miss my wool base! It'd be weird wearing it out though. People would think I'm out in my undetwear. My mom and bro hate these sunglasses on me, saying it doesn't match my face, then again I like really weird sunglasses sometimes. :) No smiling since I'm all serious after the Camino. Hah, not.

By the way, I keep thinking of how many of you prayed for me and how hard you prayed. God can do such amazing and great things. So many nuns, priests, brothers, fantastic friends who love God and/or me and maybe even you who I don't personally know. I honestly think all the fabulous weather I had was seriously because of you. ;) Thank you thank thank you. Love, Christina

Santa Clara Carmelite Monastery

A little feel of Spain right here in the Bay area! The Carmelite monastery, Carmel of the Infant Jesus, is right next to Santa Clara University and has really beautiful grounds.

Weekday mass: 7:15am
Sunday mass: 10:30am
Vespers 4:30 pm

Trip Wrap-Up

Lol, I feel like I'm back working again, calling this post a wrap-up. Thought it might interest you to know what I'm thinking and feeling though after 2 days back from my trip.

Bay area was so hot the first day I was back! I was sweating like a pig in my wool base layer. Grabbed an in-n-out burger after I landed, hehe. Mmm. So much better than either the McIberico or other burgers over there. It feels like spring here. I see flowers on the trees. So weird hearing people speak English, especially the cyclists. When I hear the Latinos speak it's also a bit strange because they have a different accent, but still more normal than English, heh.

I think I've gotten used to the lack of personal space. Now, it feels weird and standoffish when friends don't embrace or kiss me. Lol.

BODY
My knees and feet are still really overused and worn. Glad my roomies are both med students (almost doctors, they're so close to finishing!). One said the pain and swelling was due to repetitive stress, but that my feet should be back to normal in a month or so. My feet kind of fit in my shoes, but the front part is a little expanded and are a bit tight in my shoes.  I still can't walk normally because my feet hurt and when I'm off them, then start walking, it's still somewhat painful in the beginning. I still can't easily bend my knees either. My body is stooped like I'm still carrying the backpack on my back. I need a massage.  Because I want to keep off my feet, I think I want to start swimming to get a workout. I'd rather run or walk, but my other roomie and bff suggested I do something low impact. Gar, I really want to get some physical exercise. It feels weird eating so much and not having much physical activity. Yes, I weighed myself after getting back and I did lose about 5-10 pounds. Heh, not a ton...not that I had too much to lose, but anything is good!

MIND
Airport and plane ride with so many people was a bit crazy. On my flight back I sat next to a mom and the cutest 9m baby girl ever. She was sooo good and didn't really cry. Not sure why I coincidentally get sat next to babies on my long hauls in the beginning and end of the Camino. Driving was a bit of an adjustment and when I went to volunteer teach, the motions I made were much more psyhologically deliberate. I feel a lot more focused - I think it's because of the Camino.  I feel that I have changed a bit in both mind and body. I know that I need to take some more time to reflect on my experience and to process everything. Answers may come slowly, but patience is a virtue. :)

HOW WAS MY TRIP?
People ask me this. What do I say? Excellent. I learned a lot. The Camino is a school of life and I carry the Camino in my heart. A winter Camino is very special. It is a great time for self reflection because there aren't many people as you walk.  I'm not sure if I'd want to do the entire Camino Frances again, but there are some sections I'd do in a heartbeat. Other Caminos  would be very interesting. Back to reality though. I feel like I'm ready to face reality and take on the world.

THOUGHTS ON WALKING THE WINTER CAMINO ALONE AS A WOMAN
I think as a young woman in her 20's travelling and walking alone, there are both greater risks and greater rewards. People usually say that you need to be careful in the big cities, but honestly, I felt more at risk in some small towns because there are so few people around to help you if you run into trouble, so having your wits about you at all times is important. Just because you're on pilgrimage and in the 'Camino bubble', doesn't mean that the outside world can't harm you. The winter pilgrims are mostly a decent lot, choosing to walk the camino in potentially more arduous conditions. It's the non-pilgrims I worried about.

What I Left Behind along the Camino and What I Loved

Left Behind Along Camino
-plastic bag for bag b/c I had a pack cover and that sufficed - Roncesvalles
-vest, hand sanitizer - Cizur Menor
-camelbak - Carrion de los Condes; I just used a cheap water bottle the entire time because when I needed a drink, I also needed to rest.

My Favorites
-wool base layer - I felt clean in these even after several wearings and didn't need to wash them every day; synthetics get smelly and don't feel as clean on the skin
-pack cover - keeps bag clean and the rain off
-sleeping bag - even though I was hot most times, it was so much better to be warm than cold because I could cool down easily, but warming up takes longer in winter.
-toilet paper - enough said

What I Carried that I Didn't Wish I Carried
-too many clothes. I wish I hadn't brought my turtleneck. Then again, it was a strangely warm winter and could have gotten cold so extra layers might have been useful if I hit colder temps during my walk. I also had only 2 days of rain my entire trip - lucky, I know.

Au Revoir Paris

Shuttle picked me up at 3:20 am. Eugh tired. Got to see the landmarks from the van but most weren't lit up.

Vat refund customs line in CDG T1
5:30 am queue nonexistent. :) I love travelling in off-season. No crowds to deal with. I was 1st one in line. Here's now hoping that I can get the actual refund.

Last Fall...I hope
Lol as I was heading over to the gate for boarding, I tripped over my hiking boot shoelaces and took a nice hard tumble to the floor, lol. You know that moment when u know you're going to fall, have your hands full, and cant stop yourself? Talk about graceful. Knees hit the ground and I bruised. Ow. I can never escape pain it seems. Silly me.

Last Day Paris

<p>Lazy start. I still wake up with the sun, latest around 8, but it feels sooooo good to just lie there, not worried about getting kicked out.</p>
<p>Yummy lunch around the place then to Sacre Couer. By chance got there at 2:45 for 1st Friday Mass of the Sacred Heart of Jesus at 3pm. Nuns singing and a Spanish priest co-presided, there on pilgrimage. Afterwards benediction and exposition in the chapel downstairs. Amazing to see so many people there, mostly of African origin. Never any coincidences. :). Afterwards to Chapel of the Miraculous Medal on Rue de Bac, tjen literally 20 ft away to pick up something for mom at Le Bon Marche (people so nice there) and then we hit the mother lode of a gourmand shopper's paradise across the street from Le Bon. Imagine a whole foods of boutique artesanal food shops all collected into one place. I used to be a major foodie, but this place is just amazing and would have made my former self ecstatic as she had never been before. Bought el Faradelo de St Jacques in honor of my camino and lots of foie gras. Both ready made and other regular grocery items. Yogurt and four selection so awesome. Mmmmmmm</p>

Paris Food + Museuming

Stuffed ourselves silly today with Poilane baked goods, Stube currywurst, Angelina hot chocolate and montblanc, Laduree macarons (orange flower, rose, violet blackberry) and pho. A gastronomic tour today. :) Fit in the Musee dOrsay and lOrangerie in between. Excellent beautiful spaces for the art collections. Happy to have my fill of Monets nympheas in the white circular rooms in lOrangerie.

Sacre Couer from Clock of Musee dOrsay

cold here! below freezing

eiffel at sunset

hm, is this hot chocolate really one of the best in the world

Leaving Santiago

Rainy cloudy and some sun today on the monbus (runs every hour) down to vigo. Saw many trees with what looked like yellow flowers on top. Reminds me of the daffodils and smell of hyacinth that wafted by when i tyrned the corner in Santiago to face the cathedral.

Transportation in Vigo

8 Eur for bus to vigo bus station via Monbus. Walked about 15 minutes to catch the 9a bus for 1.22 eur to the airport. Bus probably took 30 min to 1 hr. A taxi would cost 15 eur. I still feel so exhausted.
Nice guy on the bus in vigo picked up some pennies I dropped even though I said it didn't matter (no te preocupes). Vigo airport took my bastones but I didn't care since I was planning on losing them if necessary. Flight wasn't bad because I'm short and I fit in the seat, but my knees were a few cm from the seat in front of me. There's just a lot of smooching noises (my neighbors) amidst the babies' cries.

Barcelona airport looked really familiar. Hah, it's because I've slept here before, lol. I don't remember all the airports I've gone through anymore or maybe I just lost track or don't care. All the wonderful Spaniards I met came from either Barcelona or Galicia. Maybe I will see Barcelona again. Galicia is an of course for Fisterra.

Easing myself into non-camino civilization...going into clothing stores and other consumer places. No, I haven't bought anything, yet, only food and a cardboard tube for my compostela. I might since early February is a great time for sales in Paris ;) My head hurts. Maybe it's all the electronic sounds and non-country air. So much chatter everywhere.  Feel nauseous the entire day.

Paris Orly and then playing with friends in Paris! It's a convergence of Asian ladies, lol. Asians were a scarcity along the Camino, and non-peregrino Asians even more so. I only saw Chinese people in their bazaar shops or Chinese restaurants in big cities minus the Korean taekwondo master's family in Estella.
I can't believe how lucky I am to have the chance to meet up with so many (for me so many is more than 2 ;)) people I know in the city of love and light after the Camino. Feeling blessed.
<3<3<3<3<3
Switching brain to understanding french is super hard. I'm staying in the 13th Arrondissement, apparently near the heart of Chinatown, who knew? Hilarious because information desk man super friendly at Orly and joked that I'd fit right in. After no Asians, I'm being thrown into the fire. By good luck Orly is super close so was easy to get here!

Day 36 Santiago etapa dos

Finally Bought Tickets Back To Paris

<p>This morning I tried to print out my boarding pass for the flight I just found this morning through Vueling. I'm flying out Vigo-Barcelona-Paris. Make sure to not use the mobile site if u want connecting/indirect flights since it will only allow u to book single segments. Printer wouldn't work in the private albergue.
After purchasing my ticket online, I got ready to meet God and St. James. I put on a clean tunic, combed my hair with my fingers(BC I had lost my wooden comb a dear friend who passed away had given me), braided my hair, wore a pair of earrings and chapsticked up. <p>Went to the cathedral where I first went for reconciliation. The padre, my confessor, was very chatty and even sang the American national anthem for me...I think he knew more words than I do, heh. He also told me that the cathedral used to not charge for the botafumeiro but some travel agencies would be deceptive to their customers and collect a little extra saying it was the price to see the botafumeiro fly. So they decided to charge a donation fee&#160;to offset the costs of hiring the men to swing the botafumeiro. If it's not hanging that day, it's not flying. I was sitting waiting for the noon pilgrims mass to start. Sadly the botafumeiro didn't fly, but had swung on Sunday (the original day I wanted to arrive until plans changed). The nun asked for a volunteer lector. I went up after much thought, ducking under the red ropes, but she said she already had volunteers. She thanked me and then told me to sit next to the lector and opened the gate that separates the main altar/sanctuary/presbytyry? from the rest of the cathedral. Errr, what? She told me I could get a better view from that seat. I sat there frozen in nervousness and perhaps a little bit of terror, feeling so close to the glory of God, and stunned at this gift to get the best seats in a house of God.</p>

Mass started and tears welled up in my eyes. After partaking of the Eucharist, the stone floor at my knees were littered with teardrops. I tried to sob quietly, overwhelmed more than usual, glad at this point that most everyone could only see my back. It's that same indescribable feeling I have, but magnified greatly, in proportion to the efforts I had made to get to Santiago.

After mass I saw the Canarian and Alejandro again! So happy to see peregrinos I knew. Didn't know the other peregrinos at the mass and they didn't really talk to me. Went to hug the apostle statue for all of you who can't be here or walk The Way and gave him muchicimos besos like when seeing a good friend after a long while.  I embraced him with utter joy. Went to tourism office for fisterra and vigo bus schedules.

Benedictine Convent

Bought magdalenas from the Benedictine convent (u just ring the doorbell and ask what pasteles they sell....no signs about selling, the padre just gave me the info....I'm telling you, where food is concerned, I have so much fortune, or maybe I just ask a lot ;)...Casa manolo was closed for vacation-martin the Galician had recommended it). I talked with the nun a bit and she told me I needed to spend more time in Santiago because I didn't yet feel like I had found all my answers. Then she invited me to vespers and laudes. She seemed gentle and contemplative, a bit of the character of the Cistertians I had visited at Redwoods.
I sat in the cathedral a bit contemplating whether to head towards finisterre or stay in Santiago looking for my answers
decided to stay since I want to make another Camino, the Camino norte and walk to fisterra some other time, anyone interested in the next 2 years? ;). I find it a bit sad the peregrinos don't hang around the Cathedral very long after making the Camino (mass, a little sightseeing and off they go), but I'm told there are peregrinos that stay months afterward. Did most everyone arrive at their answers quickly except me and a few other folks? Perhaps my questions are complicated.

The Carmelites

 I met an old lady in the chapel of the Blessed Sacrament and she called me a good peregrina, meh. Good for what? She took me to her house for the night for 20 eur (she loves peregrinos and believes always in providence, never coincidence...really something the Camino has taught me) and fed me rice soup and kale, my first meal of the day. I helped put drops in her eyes for some condition she has. She seriously insisted I go visit the Carmelites here and she likes them the most. So she called the convent and they expected me at 7:30 vespers. I struggled to understand what she was telling me were the plans for the evening and at one point she became very frustrated - trying to understand Spanish becomes really tiring when you're exhausted. Dealing with people who aren't peregrinos takes some getting used to. I admit, most of the time I just wanted to be alone, but grit my teeth, smiled and listened to chatter about prophesies about the end of the world and the rampant atheism in Spain.

 Took the #1 bus to the convent and listened to the vespers. The Carmelites invited me to their parlor afterwards to get to know me. I chatted first with one mother who speaks perfect English. She is hilarious. Then I think most everyone joined to talk with me in a semicircle around the window. There are 11 sisters here and no novitiates. What joy and vivaciousness these sisters have! Seriously they are really funny and dynamic. At one point I asked if they were discalced carmelites. they all showed me their feet and we all burst into laughter. One sister wrapped her clothes around herself and said "christina, we're so cold!!!" Pretending like she was a pobrecita, shivering from the freezing cold, knees shaking. I'm surprised there aren't more monjas here because they are awesome. I told them about my knife i had bought for protection against potential evildoers and one sister that had walked the camino before entering the convent 2 years later said she had done the same thing! Hah, now I don't feel so guilty having a potential weapon for self defense on my pilgrimage. When they are at ease and happy, they like to sing. So they sang for me and I joined in on the melodies I knew or could follow. 2 sisters whipped out guitars and it was like I had angels singing for me, so beautiful were their voices. I felt like the grill didn't separate us. We were all one and united. I didn't want the audience to end, but it was 10pm. Walked home and exhaustion hit me like a brick wall. I'm starting to feel everything I haven't been able to feel while walking.

 I forgot to mention I had to fiddle with keys the size of my arm and weight of substantial barbells to attend vespers. At first I couldn't unlock the massive wood door no matter which way I turned the key and threw my body against the door to see if it would budge. The mother said she could call someone to help me but I told her I'd try for one more minute. Voila! The door unlocked like a well-oiled baby as soon as I inserted the key one more time. I walked in darkness to find the handles of the doors into the chapel. Going out I also had to step through darkness. I walked slowly through these parts as there were steps and I have no depth perception in darkness.

 Gifts Galore
 I received so many gifts of reading material from the Carmelites and Pastora, the old lady. Also received a glow in the dark rosary from Pastora. All in Spanish.

Thank You Readers!

Hello friends and readers. Thank you so much for your prayers, thoughts and words of encouragement. I can really feel the love even all the way from here, even if I didn't reply. You were also constantly in my prayers. Thanks for bearing with my horrendous writing and auto-correct on this mobile device throughout my journey. I would improve the writing if I had time, but on the Camino you always think first about basic needs and the present moment or next moment.

Buen Camino en sus vidas. :)

Words of Encouragement Along Camino

Buen Camino
Buena Suerte
Aopa (Navarros say this, especially cyclists)
Honking of autos
Hmnm...don't quite remember the others right now...

Day 35 Reactions

This morning all the Spanish men jetted out of the albergue at 7 or so to get to noon mass. I gave them 2 hugs each and they gave me the besos on the cheeks. Sniff, I was so sad to say goodbye to them because it meant the end of the Camino was near. They're also a good sort.

Photographer for La Voz Galicia was on the Camino and kept taking photos of me (was for newspaper article on winter pilgrims) this morning. Glad I had sunglasses on and I walked as fast as I could to get away. Some moments of quiet but mostly traffic sounds.

Saw the cathedral, nothing except yay, hello again. At entrance was a japanese tour group and one of the guides kept asking me questions. Then all the people filed out and shook my hand..i felt a little sheepish like a politician or figurehead shaking hands with citizens receiving congratulations for something i felt like i didnt do. Some wanted photos with me so i posed japanese style. :) i kind of felt like mickey mouse. Went to crypt and prayed a bit with a bit of weeping. As I exited another smaller group of Portuguese women talked with me a bit asking questions. I liked the smaller more intimate questioning. I told everyone they could walk the Camino too.

I felt lonely. Where were all the peregrinos I had so much camaraderie with? None in the plaza all late afternoon save one.

Staying at a tourist albergue makes me miss the municipal and xunta albergues. Normal people are so loud and obnoxious compared to the Camino. I don't want to face regular civilization just yet. However a hot shower where hot water doesn't run out, a place that gives you a fluffy cotton towel and use of a hairdryer feels absolutely luxurious.

Tomorrow I will go hug the apostle...and I don't have to walk 10+ km. Sweet but bittersweet. My body is saying no more, especially my knees and left leg. There's some muscle strain. However, My mind wants to keep going to Finisterre.

Day 35 Santiago

Yay! Thought about Monte de Gonzo, but I had to go to Santiago. I could see it in the distance. I also heard Pati was there but I didn't see her. My name is on the list for tomorrow's mass. Now I need to find tickets back to Paris. It's ridiculously hard trying to find reasonably priced transportation back to Paris from here. Ridiculous. Oh well.

Day 34 Arco e Pino (Pedrouzo)

Yay made it after losing my way twice this morning because I wasn't paying attention and had this competitive spirit because there were so many peregrinos to get ahead of in the Melide albergue. After that I psychologically stopped myself from trying to think this way since I'd probably only injure myself not going my own speed.
Mmmm smell of eucalyptus forest in the morning mist. I'm smiling a lot more now that I am only 20 km away from Santiago!!! (Yep that means I'm always beaming since you guys know I smile a lot) :) New amigo Martin covered my chocolate and refused to accept pastries I had bought in thanks. Oh well!

Day 33 Melide

Saw that small black dog in Rosario right before Palas de Rei. Looks like it was having fun with a white chicken and another bigger dog. It was following them, Heh. I hope it has found a happy home with lots of food.

Yesterday, scent of pines oh and love momentary wafts of fresh laundry. As I crossed over to Coruna, I felt for a few minutes that I was in Italy. Tile red cypress trees warm breeze blue sky. Made 2 new friends briefly Alejandro, and Jesus. One old one young. My feet are hurting, no doubt about it. Took some Advil. Hopefully I can rest up and go to Arco or Santa Irene tomorrow.

Day 32 Eirexe

Bizarre and even more bizarre dreams ever since I have come into Galicia. They get more emotional and haunting.
Knife fell out of my pocket and I don't want it to injure any person or animal, so going back to find it.
Found it, yay. It was between km 99 and 100. Wonder if it fell out because I don't need it anymore.
Had nice lunch with view in Porto Marin. Ran into Pati too in front of the church! Heh. She 5old me there are sick people behind me, so I want to stay ahead of them. raced forward. There was one point where I tried to take a shortcut that involved a 7-9 ft drop down a brambly wall from my estimate. I stood there contemplating my choice since it would be so easy to just fling my backpack and sticks down. The only problem was that my legs were no way fresh. If something happened to any part of my feet or legs, my planto arrive by foot  might be obscured. Ultimately decided against it.
Am I the pied piper of dogs or is this normal on the Camino? Another larger cute dog with big brown eyes followed me for a long while.  A Cat this morning was seriously invading my personal space too while I was walking.
I see many females herding animals in Galicia. Today the locals really look Irish in the way they dress and look. They have these wooden sticks and wear  woolens.
Fastest mass I've ever heard. Zoom!
Really hard to decide btwn Melide and Arzua tomorrow for Sat.
My feet hurt so much in the middle of the night I whimpered and cried.

Day 31 Ferreiras

Started walking at 8:30, stopped at 5:30. Less than 100km now left. Passed by Sarria on the way but the city seemed dead. A grandpa was waiting to show the Santiago church to 0eregrinos in Barbadello. What luck! I'm the only person in albergue here and the water isn't very hot. Nice and quiet though. Very small village with no tienda.

Day 30 Reflections

I came here with the thought that this would be an awesome albergue, but it isn't what I envisioned, not bad at all though. Can't wait for vespers and mass. Peregrinos can participate in laudes, vespers and mass at the monastery, but it doesnt say anything about the other oraciones so I assume not. There are murals all over the walls and ceilings. Even though it is a gorgeous clear day outside, if I'm not walking, I'm in my sleeping bag trying to keep warm. I hope it's so cold in the room that all possible bedbugs are frozen to death. :) I feel lucky. I and most fellow pilgrims haven't had a real problem with bedbugs yet. I think I may have been bitten once in one albergue .

My feet have hurt in different places throughout my journey, but they are now very tender. I didn't understand others who said they were worried their feet wouldn't fit into their boots if they took them off, until now. My heels barely fit. I feel like my feet have grown longer and flattened out. I wonder if my shoes will still fit when I go back home. I have to admit, these last few days, I have become so tired and achey that if a church is far away and the hospitalero doesn't know the time of mass, I won't go check unless it's an important day.

Mass was in the monastery small chapel. Padre Domingo helped me get comfortable. If I remember correctly there are 16 monks here, 3 novices.

Trout here is smaller than in US. Tasty though! Omg tasty pastel de cuajada.

Feeling like Forrest

I thought the albergue doors close at 10pm (most albergues do).
Remember that 1st run Forrest run' scene in Forrest Gump where his braces fell off his legs? That's exactly how I felt when I rushed back to the albergue after dinner.
Waiter came after me on his yellow bike with my gloves. I am so grateful because I don't want my fingers to freeze. He told me the doors are open. I cracked up because I had made so much effort, but continued to run because it was easier than walking.

Samos Benedictine Monastery

St. Benedict femur

sacristy is huge and beautiful

Day 30 To Samos

stone roofs typical of Galicia

you see a lot of ivy and these flat rocks demarcating paths and property  after O'Cebreiro

Day 29 Triacastela

Late start. Looked for dog, but couldn't find her. I think she left with another pilgrim because I saw tiny paw tracks along the way. How often fickle is affection. Maybe she followed a pilgrim more in need of her.
Views from xunta albergues here and yesterday are amazing. Both have modern open glass sections that place you right in nature. There is a brown mouse here that seems to live in the wall next to the heater in the common space. It smells food and really isn't all that shy. I've seen and heard it several times today.
I really want to go fast and be in Santiago by Sunday, but 1 day in Samos also sounds appealing. I take each day, day by day. What arrows I follow and how quickly or slowly my feet carry me determines my plan for the day. I may have a certain idea of what I want for several days, but it's not always possible.
Below 800 year old chestnut tree...mmmm chestnuts.

Day 28 O'Cebreiro

I feel kind of bad for listening yesterday to some gossip about people I've met on the Camino, so bad. However it did shed light on some characters.
Pleasant walk through mountains. The area from Vega to Herreias and a little beyond before steep climb is especially lush with heavily flowing water and green wetness. Lots of fog that eventually burned off. Even saw a yellow daffodil in full bloom! It's as if the first sign of spring is here. Path is covered with an abundance of chestnuts and leaves. Some concrete, but not bad walk. Those of you on the Fr Walter pilgrimage in November may remember the rest stop after we left Santiago. It was where we were in the middle of the mountains and there was a 3 star hotel with a big 'Valcarce' sign on top. We had seen several pilgrims passing by and it was freezing! Well I passed by that very spot today, not expecting it, but when I saw that rest stop I burst into tears. Don't ask me why since I don't know exactly, but feeling like I was close to GAlicia might have been one reason. Yes, I am now in GAlicia, finally!
I have been thinking of 5he Franciscans and Poor Clares lately because of t,he animals I notice.
When I passed through Vega de Valcarce, a little black dog with 2 white paws started following me. I saw it and thought poor thing. It had bloodshot eyes and no collar. I thought it would stop at the end of the town, but it kept following me. I started talking to it saying that if it had an owner, it should go back. I secretly hoped it didn't have an owner and would continue following me. Perhaps this was a selfish wish, but I didn't do anything to lure it. Well, follow me it did. It braved over 12km of incline without food or water and big ferocious dogs every time we passed a village. Sometimes I thought it would turn back when the scary dog obstacles came up, but it continued following me. It seems to have a lot of courage, resilience and scrappiness.  I would turn around and it was there. If I didn't see it, I became sad, thinking it had stopped following me. I think it is a girl dog and I may call her saegi if I see her again. No idea where I got that. The dogs in O'Cebreiro keep bothering her and I hope she is OK tonight. I feel like it is my fault if something happens to her since I was the reason she came here. She doesn't make any noises like barking and she is furtive. If you look at her, she freezes. If you don't look at her, she follows you. I tried offering her food tonight but she didn't touch it. After I had dinner I couldn't find her and started crying worried something bad might have happened and was very sorry that she had followed me here. Yeah, I'm not 5 but the Camino does strange things to you. I went out again at night into the now foggy town to look for her, but she was still being bothered by another dog. I hope she makes it tonight. Perhaps she also wants to make pilgrimage to Santiago. We shall see.
Nothing to eat in O'Cebreiro. Restaurant food was bleh except tarta de Santiago and tienda had very little stocked.

Day 27 Villafranca de Bierzos

Yesterday in Ponferrada I saw a fig tree with real figs on them! They weren't juicy, though, having dried out. The basilica in Ponferrada also celebrated Our Lady de Soledad, but they cancelled the procession because of the thick fog. Mass was presided over by a bishop and the choir sang. It was quite nice, but not many people probably because it was a Saturday night and the younger set are busy in the bars or smoking weed. I smell it in a handful of cities along the Camino. Lots of men and some ladies smoke cigarettes like chimneys too.
Wine country here. Lots of walking on asphalt today and rocky packed earth.
Hot shower at Ave Felix. Yay. Saw a mouse, heh. Doesn't really bother me as there are more important things to worry about like staying warm and aching feet bottoms.:) I usually like cold, but after so many days, a toasty fire here is most welcome.
Hopefully OCebreiro tomorrow. All uphill from here and a steep last 6km tomorrow. My backpack is so heavy today and it bothers my back. I don't want to walk, don't want to take the bus, but also don't want to stay here and stay still. If only flying with wings was an option. Santiago is so close yet so far.

Day 26 Ponferrada

So sore in back, shoulders and legs this morning. Neck and shoulders have bothered me the last 3 days.
With 3 Koreans today.

Castle of Templars, renovated and restored

Levätä rauhassa. There aren't many Finnish pilgrims along the Camino. In fact, I met none. Otherwise, perhaps I could have practiced my toddler-level language skills. :) Marker dedicated to Finnish pilgrim that died along the Camino around km 202,5.

View of Basilica from castle

Day 25 Molinaseca

Hospitalero said goodbye to everyone by giving them a hug and wishing that they find their answers.
Lovely walk through the Leonese mountains today. I felt like my feet could carry me over long distances when they are on nice trails. Slipped on a large slippery rock (slate several meters long) early afternoon and fell backwards. Here and yesterday you see lots of oak, dry pine, heather, slate and white quartz marbly stone. After that, proceeded a little more cautiously and slowly. Thought I'd be going to Ponferrada, but because of the unplanned slowness, staying in Molinaseca municipal. I'd rather not rush.
Cruz de ferro today.  Here, traditionally, you testify before God that you are making this pilgrimage and ask for protection against the dangers of the Camino. People bring rocks from their home country and leave it here, having çarried it for their entire journey up to now,  symbolic of habits or thoughts they want to get rid of. I actually picked my rock up the 2nd or ³rd day on the Camino.
Molinaseca municipal albergue was freezing cold. Wood stove for heating, but hospitalero was stingy about providing firewood. We were given 2 buckets of sticks and a few logs, even though we begged for more wood and would have brought it. We were so cold we just huddled around the fire before getting into our sleeping bags. 2 pilgrims before us had stayed here for 2 days and went through 50 kilos of wood-i don't know why, but because of them, I think we were punished by being given much less wood. This is one case why one needs to always think of how their actions will affect other pilgrims after them.

Day 24 Foncebadon

Hear singing in the mountains, thought it was a shepherd, but was a French pilgrim singing going in the opposite direction. He was blowing us many kisses for letting him know of the next albergue.
Tasty dinner of maragato meats, paella, salad and homemade goat yoghurt.
I could feel the slats under the mattress. Blah, and everyone tried to switch out rooms from the snorer, but they couldn't escape him, except 3 who had made friends with the hospitalero.
Below cats that followed me.

Gaudi castle in Astorga

Cathedral in Astorga, it's nice but not crazy amazing

Day 23 Astorga

Nice pastoral walk to Astorga. Many ladies wished me buen camino but expressed concern at me travelling alone. I talked a while with one abuelita in Astorga that really reminded me of my grandma, especially her eyes.  She told me that I really needed to be careful, especially with all the problems like drugs. When I arrived at albergue I heard that one of the Peregrinos had been robbed right in front. 2nd victim today. Men dressed like cops asked for their wallets pretending to look for drugs and stole money. Pilgrim reported it to the police and apparently they were at the station a long time.