Day 36 Santiago etapa dos

Finally Bought Tickets Back To Paris

<p>This morning I tried to print out my boarding pass for the flight I just found this morning through Vueling. I'm flying out Vigo-Barcelona-Paris. Make sure to not use the mobile site if u want connecting/indirect flights since it will only allow u to book single segments. Printer wouldn't work in the private albergue.
After purchasing my ticket online, I got ready to meet God and St. James. I put on a clean tunic, combed my hair with my fingers(BC I had lost my wooden comb a dear friend who passed away had given me), braided my hair, wore a pair of earrings and chapsticked up. <p>Went to the cathedral where I first went for reconciliation. The padre, my confessor, was very chatty and even sang the American national anthem for me...I think he knew more words than I do, heh. He also told me that the cathedral used to not charge for the botafumeiro but some travel agencies would be deceptive to their customers and collect a little extra saying it was the price to see the botafumeiro fly. So they decided to charge a donation fee&#160;to offset the costs of hiring the men to swing the botafumeiro. If it's not hanging that day, it's not flying. I was sitting waiting for the noon pilgrims mass to start. Sadly the botafumeiro didn't fly, but had swung on Sunday (the original day I wanted to arrive until plans changed). The nun asked for a volunteer lector. I went up after much thought, ducking under the red ropes, but she said she already had volunteers. She thanked me and then told me to sit next to the lector and opened the gate that separates the main altar/sanctuary/presbytyry? from the rest of the cathedral. Errr, what? She told me I could get a better view from that seat. I sat there frozen in nervousness and perhaps a little bit of terror, feeling so close to the glory of God, and stunned at this gift to get the best seats in a house of God.</p>

Mass started and tears welled up in my eyes. After partaking of the Eucharist, the stone floor at my knees were littered with teardrops. I tried to sob quietly, overwhelmed more than usual, glad at this point that most everyone could only see my back. It's that same indescribable feeling I have, but magnified greatly, in proportion to the efforts I had made to get to Santiago.

After mass I saw the Canarian and Alejandro again! So happy to see peregrinos I knew. Didn't know the other peregrinos at the mass and they didn't really talk to me. Went to hug the apostle statue for all of you who can't be here or walk The Way and gave him muchicimos besos like when seeing a good friend after a long while.  I embraced him with utter joy. Went to tourism office for fisterra and vigo bus schedules.

Benedictine Convent

Bought magdalenas from the Benedictine convent (u just ring the doorbell and ask what pasteles they sell....no signs about selling, the padre just gave me the info....I'm telling you, where food is concerned, I have so much fortune, or maybe I just ask a lot ;)...Casa manolo was closed for vacation-martin the Galician had recommended it). I talked with the nun a bit and she told me I needed to spend more time in Santiago because I didn't yet feel like I had found all my answers. Then she invited me to vespers and laudes. She seemed gentle and contemplative, a bit of the character of the Cistertians I had visited at Redwoods.
I sat in the cathedral a bit contemplating whether to head towards finisterre or stay in Santiago looking for my answers
decided to stay since I want to make another Camino, the Camino norte and walk to fisterra some other time, anyone interested in the next 2 years? ;). I find it a bit sad the peregrinos don't hang around the Cathedral very long after making the Camino (mass, a little sightseeing and off they go), but I'm told there are peregrinos that stay months afterward. Did most everyone arrive at their answers quickly except me and a few other folks? Perhaps my questions are complicated.

The Carmelites

 I met an old lady in the chapel of the Blessed Sacrament and she called me a good peregrina, meh. Good for what? She took me to her house for the night for 20 eur (she loves peregrinos and believes always in providence, never coincidence...really something the Camino has taught me) and fed me rice soup and kale, my first meal of the day. I helped put drops in her eyes for some condition she has. She seriously insisted I go visit the Carmelites here and she likes them the most. So she called the convent and they expected me at 7:30 vespers. I struggled to understand what she was telling me were the plans for the evening and at one point she became very frustrated - trying to understand Spanish becomes really tiring when you're exhausted. Dealing with people who aren't peregrinos takes some getting used to. I admit, most of the time I just wanted to be alone, but grit my teeth, smiled and listened to chatter about prophesies about the end of the world and the rampant atheism in Spain.

 Took the #1 bus to the convent and listened to the vespers. The Carmelites invited me to their parlor afterwards to get to know me. I chatted first with one mother who speaks perfect English. She is hilarious. Then I think most everyone joined to talk with me in a semicircle around the window. There are 11 sisters here and no novitiates. What joy and vivaciousness these sisters have! Seriously they are really funny and dynamic. At one point I asked if they were discalced carmelites. they all showed me their feet and we all burst into laughter. One sister wrapped her clothes around herself and said "christina, we're so cold!!!" Pretending like she was a pobrecita, shivering from the freezing cold, knees shaking. I'm surprised there aren't more monjas here because they are awesome. I told them about my knife i had bought for protection against potential evildoers and one sister that had walked the camino before entering the convent 2 years later said she had done the same thing! Hah, now I don't feel so guilty having a potential weapon for self defense on my pilgrimage. When they are at ease and happy, they like to sing. So they sang for me and I joined in on the melodies I knew or could follow. 2 sisters whipped out guitars and it was like I had angels singing for me, so beautiful were their voices. I felt like the grill didn't separate us. We were all one and united. I didn't want the audience to end, but it was 10pm. Walked home and exhaustion hit me like a brick wall. I'm starting to feel everything I haven't been able to feel while walking.

 I forgot to mention I had to fiddle with keys the size of my arm and weight of substantial barbells to attend vespers. At first I couldn't unlock the massive wood door no matter which way I turned the key and threw my body against the door to see if it would budge. The mother said she could call someone to help me but I told her I'd try for one more minute. Voila! The door unlocked like a well-oiled baby as soon as I inserted the key one more time. I walked in darkness to find the handles of the doors into the chapel. Going out I also had to step through darkness. I walked slowly through these parts as there were steps and I have no depth perception in darkness.

 Gifts Galore
 I received so many gifts of reading material from the Carmelites and Pastora, the old lady. Also received a glow in the dark rosary from Pastora. All in Spanish.

Thank You Readers!

Hello friends and readers. Thank you so much for your prayers, thoughts and words of encouragement. I can really feel the love even all the way from here, even if I didn't reply. You were also constantly in my prayers. Thanks for bearing with my horrendous writing and auto-correct on this mobile device throughout my journey. I would improve the writing if I had time, but on the Camino you always think first about basic needs and the present moment or next moment.

Buen Camino en sus vidas. :)

Words of Encouragement Along Camino

Buen Camino
Buena Suerte
Aopa (Navarros say this, especially cyclists)
Honking of autos
Hmnm...don't quite remember the others right now...

Day 35 Reactions

This morning all the Spanish men jetted out of the albergue at 7 or so to get to noon mass. I gave them 2 hugs each and they gave me the besos on the cheeks. Sniff, I was so sad to say goodbye to them because it meant the end of the Camino was near. They're also a good sort.

Photographer for La Voz Galicia was on the Camino and kept taking photos of me (was for newspaper article on winter pilgrims) this morning. Glad I had sunglasses on and I walked as fast as I could to get away. Some moments of quiet but mostly traffic sounds.

Saw the cathedral, nothing except yay, hello again. At entrance was a japanese tour group and one of the guides kept asking me questions. Then all the people filed out and shook my hand..i felt a little sheepish like a politician or figurehead shaking hands with citizens receiving congratulations for something i felt like i didnt do. Some wanted photos with me so i posed japanese style. :) i kind of felt like mickey mouse. Went to crypt and prayed a bit with a bit of weeping. As I exited another smaller group of Portuguese women talked with me a bit asking questions. I liked the smaller more intimate questioning. I told everyone they could walk the Camino too.

I felt lonely. Where were all the peregrinos I had so much camaraderie with? None in the plaza all late afternoon save one.

Staying at a tourist albergue makes me miss the municipal and xunta albergues. Normal people are so loud and obnoxious compared to the Camino. I don't want to face regular civilization just yet. However a hot shower where hot water doesn't run out, a place that gives you a fluffy cotton towel and use of a hairdryer feels absolutely luxurious.

Tomorrow I will go hug the apostle...and I don't have to walk 10+ km. Sweet but bittersweet. My body is saying no more, especially my knees and left leg. There's some muscle strain. However, My mind wants to keep going to Finisterre.

Day 35 Santiago

Yay! Thought about Monte de Gonzo, but I had to go to Santiago. I could see it in the distance. I also heard Pati was there but I didn't see her. My name is on the list for tomorrow's mass. Now I need to find tickets back to Paris. It's ridiculously hard trying to find reasonably priced transportation back to Paris from here. Ridiculous. Oh well.

Day 34 Arco e Pino (Pedrouzo)

Yay made it after losing my way twice this morning because I wasn't paying attention and had this competitive spirit because there were so many peregrinos to get ahead of in the Melide albergue. After that I psychologically stopped myself from trying to think this way since I'd probably only injure myself not going my own speed.
Mmmm smell of eucalyptus forest in the morning mist. I'm smiling a lot more now that I am only 20 km away from Santiago!!! (Yep that means I'm always beaming since you guys know I smile a lot) :) New amigo Martin covered my chocolate and refused to accept pastries I had bought in thanks. Oh well!

Day 33 Melide

Saw that small black dog in Rosario right before Palas de Rei. Looks like it was having fun with a white chicken and another bigger dog. It was following them, Heh. I hope it has found a happy home with lots of food.

Yesterday, scent of pines oh and love momentary wafts of fresh laundry. As I crossed over to Coruna, I felt for a few minutes that I was in Italy. Tile red cypress trees warm breeze blue sky. Made 2 new friends briefly Alejandro, and Jesus. One old one young. My feet are hurting, no doubt about it. Took some Advil. Hopefully I can rest up and go to Arco or Santa Irene tomorrow.

Day 32 Eirexe

Bizarre and even more bizarre dreams ever since I have come into Galicia. They get more emotional and haunting.
Knife fell out of my pocket and I don't want it to injure any person or animal, so going back to find it.
Found it, yay. It was between km 99 and 100. Wonder if it fell out because I don't need it anymore.
Had nice lunch with view in Porto Marin. Ran into Pati too in front of the church! Heh. She 5old me there are sick people behind me, so I want to stay ahead of them. raced forward. There was one point where I tried to take a shortcut that involved a 7-9 ft drop down a brambly wall from my estimate. I stood there contemplating my choice since it would be so easy to just fling my backpack and sticks down. The only problem was that my legs were no way fresh. If something happened to any part of my feet or legs, my planto arrive by foot  might be obscured. Ultimately decided against it.
Am I the pied piper of dogs or is this normal on the Camino? Another larger cute dog with big brown eyes followed me for a long while.  A Cat this morning was seriously invading my personal space too while I was walking.
I see many females herding animals in Galicia. Today the locals really look Irish in the way they dress and look. They have these wooden sticks and wear  woolens.
Fastest mass I've ever heard. Zoom!
Really hard to decide btwn Melide and Arzua tomorrow for Sat.
My feet hurt so much in the middle of the night I whimpered and cried.

Day 31 Ferreiras

Started walking at 8:30, stopped at 5:30. Less than 100km now left. Passed by Sarria on the way but the city seemed dead. A grandpa was waiting to show the Santiago church to 0eregrinos in Barbadello. What luck! I'm the only person in albergue here and the water isn't very hot. Nice and quiet though. Very small village with no tienda.

Day 30 Reflections

I came here with the thought that this would be an awesome albergue, but it isn't what I envisioned, not bad at all though. Can't wait for vespers and mass. Peregrinos can participate in laudes, vespers and mass at the monastery, but it doesnt say anything about the other oraciones so I assume not. There are murals all over the walls and ceilings. Even though it is a gorgeous clear day outside, if I'm not walking, I'm in my sleeping bag trying to keep warm. I hope it's so cold in the room that all possible bedbugs are frozen to death. :) I feel lucky. I and most fellow pilgrims haven't had a real problem with bedbugs yet. I think I may have been bitten once in one albergue .

My feet have hurt in different places throughout my journey, but they are now very tender. I didn't understand others who said they were worried their feet wouldn't fit into their boots if they took them off, until now. My heels barely fit. I feel like my feet have grown longer and flattened out. I wonder if my shoes will still fit when I go back home. I have to admit, these last few days, I have become so tired and achey that if a church is far away and the hospitalero doesn't know the time of mass, I won't go check unless it's an important day.

Mass was in the monastery small chapel. Padre Domingo helped me get comfortable. If I remember correctly there are 16 monks here, 3 novices.

Trout here is smaller than in US. Tasty though! Omg tasty pastel de cuajada.

Feeling like Forrest

I thought the albergue doors close at 10pm (most albergues do).
Remember that 1st run Forrest run' scene in Forrest Gump where his braces fell off his legs? That's exactly how I felt when I rushed back to the albergue after dinner.
Waiter came after me on his yellow bike with my gloves. I am so grateful because I don't want my fingers to freeze. He told me the doors are open. I cracked up because I had made so much effort, but continued to run because it was easier than walking.

Samos Benedictine Monastery

St. Benedict femur

sacristy is huge and beautiful

Day 30 To Samos

stone roofs typical of Galicia

you see a lot of ivy and these flat rocks demarcating paths and property  after O'Cebreiro

Day 29 Triacastela

Late start. Looked for dog, but couldn't find her. I think she left with another pilgrim because I saw tiny paw tracks along the way. How often fickle is affection. Maybe she followed a pilgrim more in need of her.
Views from xunta albergues here and yesterday are amazing. Both have modern open glass sections that place you right in nature. There is a brown mouse here that seems to live in the wall next to the heater in the common space. It smells food and really isn't all that shy. I've seen and heard it several times today.
I really want to go fast and be in Santiago by Sunday, but 1 day in Samos also sounds appealing. I take each day, day by day. What arrows I follow and how quickly or slowly my feet carry me determines my plan for the day. I may have a certain idea of what I want for several days, but it's not always possible.
Below 800 year old chestnut tree...mmmm chestnuts.

Day 28 O'Cebreiro

I feel kind of bad for listening yesterday to some gossip about people I've met on the Camino, so bad. However it did shed light on some characters.
Pleasant walk through mountains. The area from Vega to Herreias and a little beyond before steep climb is especially lush with heavily flowing water and green wetness. Lots of fog that eventually burned off. Even saw a yellow daffodil in full bloom! It's as if the first sign of spring is here. Path is covered with an abundance of chestnuts and leaves. Some concrete, but not bad walk. Those of you on the Fr Walter pilgrimage in November may remember the rest stop after we left Santiago. It was where we were in the middle of the mountains and there was a 3 star hotel with a big 'Valcarce' sign on top. We had seen several pilgrims passing by and it was freezing! Well I passed by that very spot today, not expecting it, but when I saw that rest stop I burst into tears. Don't ask me why since I don't know exactly, but feeling like I was close to GAlicia might have been one reason. Yes, I am now in GAlicia, finally!
I have been thinking of 5he Franciscans and Poor Clares lately because of t,he animals I notice.
When I passed through Vega de Valcarce, a little black dog with 2 white paws started following me. I saw it and thought poor thing. It had bloodshot eyes and no collar. I thought it would stop at the end of the town, but it kept following me. I started talking to it saying that if it had an owner, it should go back. I secretly hoped it didn't have an owner and would continue following me. Perhaps this was a selfish wish, but I didn't do anything to lure it. Well, follow me it did. It braved over 12km of incline without food or water and big ferocious dogs every time we passed a village. Sometimes I thought it would turn back when the scary dog obstacles came up, but it continued following me. It seems to have a lot of courage, resilience and scrappiness.  I would turn around and it was there. If I didn't see it, I became sad, thinking it had stopped following me. I think it is a girl dog and I may call her saegi if I see her again. No idea where I got that. The dogs in O'Cebreiro keep bothering her and I hope she is OK tonight. I feel like it is my fault if something happens to her since I was the reason she came here. She doesn't make any noises like barking and she is furtive. If you look at her, she freezes. If you don't look at her, she follows you. I tried offering her food tonight but she didn't touch it. After I had dinner I couldn't find her and started crying worried something bad might have happened and was very sorry that she had followed me here. Yeah, I'm not 5 but the Camino does strange things to you. I went out again at night into the now foggy town to look for her, but she was still being bothered by another dog. I hope she makes it tonight. Perhaps she also wants to make pilgrimage to Santiago. We shall see.
Nothing to eat in O'Cebreiro. Restaurant food was bleh except tarta de Santiago and tienda had very little stocked.

Day 27 Villafranca de Bierzos

Yesterday in Ponferrada I saw a fig tree with real figs on them! They weren't juicy, though, having dried out. The basilica in Ponferrada also celebrated Our Lady de Soledad, but they cancelled the procession because of the thick fog. Mass was presided over by a bishop and the choir sang. It was quite nice, but not many people probably because it was a Saturday night and the younger set are busy in the bars or smoking weed. I smell it in a handful of cities along the Camino. Lots of men and some ladies smoke cigarettes like chimneys too.
Wine country here. Lots of walking on asphalt today and rocky packed earth.
Hot shower at Ave Felix. Yay. Saw a mouse, heh. Doesn't really bother me as there are more important things to worry about like staying warm and aching feet bottoms.:) I usually like cold, but after so many days, a toasty fire here is most welcome.
Hopefully OCebreiro tomorrow. All uphill from here and a steep last 6km tomorrow. My backpack is so heavy today and it bothers my back. I don't want to walk, don't want to take the bus, but also don't want to stay here and stay still. If only flying with wings was an option. Santiago is so close yet so far.

Day 26 Ponferrada

So sore in back, shoulders and legs this morning. Neck and shoulders have bothered me the last 3 days.
With 3 Koreans today.

Castle of Templars, renovated and restored

Levätä rauhassa. There aren't many Finnish pilgrims along the Camino. In fact, I met none. Otherwise, perhaps I could have practiced my toddler-level language skills. :) Marker dedicated to Finnish pilgrim that died along the Camino around km 202,5.

View of Basilica from castle

Day 25 Molinaseca

Hospitalero said goodbye to everyone by giving them a hug and wishing that they find their answers.
Lovely walk through the Leonese mountains today. I felt like my feet could carry me over long distances when they are on nice trails. Slipped on a large slippery rock (slate several meters long) early afternoon and fell backwards. Here and yesterday you see lots of oak, dry pine, heather, slate and white quartz marbly stone. After that, proceeded a little more cautiously and slowly. Thought I'd be going to Ponferrada, but because of the unplanned slowness, staying in Molinaseca municipal. I'd rather not rush.
Cruz de ferro today.  Here, traditionally, you testify before God that you are making this pilgrimage and ask for protection against the dangers of the Camino. People bring rocks from their home country and leave it here, having çarried it for their entire journey up to now,  symbolic of habits or thoughts they want to get rid of. I actually picked my rock up the 2nd or ³rd day on the Camino.
Molinaseca municipal albergue was freezing cold. Wood stove for heating, but hospitalero was stingy about providing firewood. We were given 2 buckets of sticks and a few logs, even though we begged for more wood and would have brought it. We were so cold we just huddled around the fire before getting into our sleeping bags. 2 pilgrims before us had stayed here for 2 days and went through 50 kilos of wood-i don't know why, but because of them, I think we were punished by being given much less wood. This is one case why one needs to always think of how their actions will affect other pilgrims after them.

Day 24 Foncebadon

Hear singing in the mountains, thought it was a shepherd, but was a French pilgrim singing going in the opposite direction. He was blowing us many kisses for letting him know of the next albergue.
Tasty dinner of maragato meats, paella, salad and homemade goat yoghurt.
I could feel the slats under the mattress. Blah, and everyone tried to switch out rooms from the snorer, but they couldn't escape him, except 3 who had made friends with the hospitalero.
Below cats that followed me.

Gaudi castle in Astorga

Cathedral in Astorga, it's nice but not crazy amazing

Day 23 Astorga

Nice pastoral walk to Astorga. Many ladies wished me buen camino but expressed concern at me travelling alone. I talked a while with one abuelita in Astorga that really reminded me of my grandma, especially her eyes.  She told me that I really needed to be careful, especially with all the problems like drugs. When I arrived at albergue I heard that one of the Peregrinos had been robbed right in front. 2nd victim today. Men dressed like cops asked for their wallets pretending to look for drugs and stole money. Pilgrim reported it to the police and apparently they were at the station a long time.

Day 22 San Martin

Day started out pretty well. I had several older ladies wish me buen Camino as I was walking out of Leon. Stopped by the Sanctuary of the Virgen del Camino, where I bought a finger rosary and also attended noon mass. The father wished me well and I got to touch the Virgen's mantle cape. I also bought a knife to replace the other one I had just lost.
The entire walk was ugly, through industrial areas and breathing in noxious car fumes. I just kept trying to focus on my prayers and all your intentions.
Saw çows and corn for the first time.
Got to Villadangos at 5pm, excited that I had arrived before the sun set, but albergue was closed and I wasn't going to stay at a hostel. Walked 5 more km to San Martin. Creepy man peeing on the street got into his van and followed me for a while, asking me where I was going several times. Glad I had the knife on me as I felt quite unsafe and threatened at that point. He drove away thankfully.
A lot of old people call me maja and one has squeezed my cheeks, honestly every other person or so that I talk to.  What are all its meanings? I'm not sure it's a good thing because I have to deal with creeps too.
The municipal albergue here was apparently dirty so I stayed with others in the private Santa Ana.

Reflection After 21 Days

21 days on the Camino. I know I've said this before, but each journey is different. Remember Hornillos? Apparently at least 3 people I personally knew wanted to sleep there, but were told it was closed, so they had to go on to Hontanas. For me, it was open. One pilgrim passed by the bar where I saw Beti the puppy, and apparently she barked at him while she was all cute with wagging tail and playful bites with me. Heh, funny the Camino. You see how others make their Caminos, but I am happiest with mine. Some people go too fast, ignore what their body is telling them, then get sick. If my body is going to take me to Santiago and Finisterre, I need to take good care of it for at least 14 more days.

The excitement of the Camino has died a bit, and this is in keeping with my normal personal vacation limit of 3 weeks at which time I usually really want to go back home and work again. I prefer rest to seeing all the sites. Selectively pick what I want to see since being on one's feet too long is painful. I will wake up in the middle of the night because of the great pain in my feet, which I don't feel as intensely when walking or during the day. However, the throbbing  pain is just a normal part of the Camino, something you live with. Making the journey right now is more a challenge of the mind, since now I am at a point where I just want to sleep and rest for days. I feel like I have come so far, yet still have much ahead of me. All the terrain in Leon looks the same. At times I will sing to myself for energy and motivation. I don't like being alone all the time, but don't want to be with people who have vibes I don't prefer.

My knees would buckle with bends and slippery rocks were it not for my bastones.

At times, something that looks like a big hill is actually flat when I get closer or have climbed it much more effortlessly than previously thought.

I have adjusted to Spanish time. The important thing is to eat constantly. :)

More Leon

6pm mass and saw Pati with others there in the cathedral chapel. Father Eduardo gave the peregrinos a blessing after she asked, then he treated all 5 of us to drinks at cafe Europa right on the square! We all got chocolate.

The 3 others just jetted off and Pati and I found a place to eat...bar rua ii? People were nice and the food looked good. I had 2 fantas because I had way too much food to finish. 300 grams of jamon bellota and Serrano.

Day 21 Leon

Staying here 2 nights because I think I need rest. I felt the oncoming of a cold. I also want to explore the city a bit. Cathedral is gorgeous with its stained glass windows and plataresque staircase, where stone is worked like silver, in minute detail.

Food shopping like crazy. Decided to do a taste test between store brand cuajada and more expensive one in the traditional clay pot. Store brand actually won me. However homemade is probably the best, with its perfect consistency and taste. Mandarins are amazingly sweet here. More jamon.

Just finished my siesta. Maybe nap and back to Santa Iglesia Cathedral to gawk at the stained glass some more.

Day 20 Leon

Pasta of estrellas from yesterday for breakfast. Foggy again. Made it to Mansillas de Las Mulas, but couldn't find any mass for Sunday along the Camino. I was in the church of Santa Maria, resting my feet, when people started piling in. Perhaps there was a mass in the afternoon after all! I asked a random person and he said it was for interring of a religious brother, named Eleador or something like that. No mass, but the casket was rolled in and I heard some sniffles. Stayed for the entire thing and prayed for him.
Decided I needed to get to Leon- perhaps i could catch a mass there. I had wanted to be a purist and walk the entire Camino, but keeping the Lord's day was more important. I got onto a bus to Leon center  for 1.40 eur and was driven to the outskirts of the center. Wept as i saw how fast we passed the camino. I tried to folliw the yellow arrows with my eyes wherever i could. Within 20 minutes, we had covered a distance that would take 6 hours. It was raining and dark. I had no idea where to go except a vague direction. I was crossing a bridge when 2 Italians asked me if i knew where i was going. I had no idea. They were super kind leading me to the convent albergue. It was closed until February 6. The albergue municipal was too far for my taste. Thankfully the Italian knew of 2 good cheap hostels near the cathedral. I went with the cheaper one called San Martin. It looked super cozy, just like a house. I love my room! Yellow walls, bathtub.
Blessed sacrament at San Isador basilica rotates by remote control for exposition and mass. Heh, technology. I was just so happy to see the Blessed Sacrament and to have caught mass, had tears in my eyes. Asked priest father Pascual for blessing after 7:30pm mass.

Day 19 El Burgo Raneros

Icicles formed on my hair today. Bonafide icicles. Last few days have really been about thinking, especially in the fog. Not rushing to Leon tomorrow like some others, but rather breaking up into 2 days.

Camino for healing

Personal and secondhand - I've heard of people walking the Camino after anything life changing from a divorce to a desire to knock down med dosages to miracle cures after the Camino.

Although I dont think i originally come for personal healing, I think about what might need healing or fixing in my life. Ah, the Camino, school of life.

Day 18 Moratinos

Late start. I decided to clean the microwave in the albergue for the sisters of charity that run the albergue in carrion. The sister that greeted me gave pati and I miraculous medals. There are 2 convents in carrion, a Claretian and Carmelite one. Carmelite convent is right next to San zilo. It wasn't in the guide so I had to ask a local. Ended up missing 8:30 mass.

Fog all day, like fog of the mind. Many things can fog our minds. It is only when the sun heats up that the fog burns away and we can truly see. What fogs your mind? What makes you blind to the true world?

Another gem from today's meditation: sin is selfish.

Reflection: The Beautiful, The Ugly

BEAUTIFUL
Frost flying off tree branches, like snow, against a blue sky
Kind voices, kind acts, respect
The cloistered nuns (I haven't met other types along the Camino yet)
Sunrises, sunsets
Soft earth, paths padded by fallen leaves
Food
Dogs and cats following me through town
Noticing birds and livestock the same color as the earth, moving about
Bells of churches, of livestock, of horses
People walking the Camino in contemplation
Handsome men walking the Camino? ;)

UGLY
A man speeding up ahead of you, then peeing right in front of you in an open street (normal pedestrian, not pilgrims.. all pilgrims up to now are a good bunch)
Animal and human logs
Trash-although I sometimes use this as an indicator that I haven't lost my way off the Camino
Specific peeve-ladies, plastic sanitary pads are not biodegradable, so please take them with you as opposed to leaving them on the camino. thank you
People getting sick and not feeling well
Mud
Asphalt, pavement, rocks under foot
Stable and city smells
Pointy metal walking sticks-use rubber tips if the weather and terrain doesn't call for pointy teeth; it also preserves the paths.

Day 17 Carrion de los Condes

Sorry, day 16 is on the phone, and can't be posted yet due to no wifi. Whenever I encounter wifi again, I will post it! Also, the last few days were all uploaded and in jumbled order, but I just cleaned it up so that it goes day by day.

I was walking from Poblacion to Villalcazar de Sirga, and stopped by the church of the Virgen del rio, which wasn't open when I got there. Any time I pass by a church, I try to see if it's open and if I really want to go inside, even if it looks locked *and it usually is* I push all the doors to see if they might give way. you never know! I decided to rest in front of the church for a bit, then saw a car drive up and a priest open the church, sweet! Went in, looked around, it had cracks everywhere and looked a bit humble. I decided to pray a Hail Mary in front of the statue of the virgin and child. I realized I kept getting distracted to decided to compose myself and say one really good Hail Mary. During that time, very briefly, I thought I felt the face of Mary upon me, a warm, consoling, comforting, sorrowful, calm feeling. Then, I walked out of the church and continued along the Camino. Soon afterwards I saw that same priest's car zoom by me, having likely locked the church again and going about his next business. Wow, I had been there for just a few moments, at the right time.

The part from Burgos up to now so far has felt like a very romantic walk. I really enjoy the landscape, canals and streams lined by trees. By chance I coincidentally ran into Lucio in Carrion, who had been in the same albergue last night, so I gave him a big hug of goodbye before he takes his bus. Carrion is where everyone pretty much piles up as the last stop before Terradillos, 30km away, so there are lots of people in the parochial albergue Espiritu Sancto tonight. 3 korean men *that doesn't include me*, Pati again! *yay it's been a while, 1 Chilean man, 1 German lady and 1 Australian girl. We're planning on going to Moratinos tomorrow. I did some serious food shopping tonight and finally bought a knife, pottery knife but is light and has a sizeable blade, but I would have preferred a dagger. I would look so cool and swashbuckling if I had one hanging from my belt loop. heh. Evildoers and fruit, watch out! Also bought some food called Morros de ternera, but when I cut into it, it really looked unappetizing with all these hairs on the meat...threw it out. Sad, but at least now I know never to order that in a restaurant!

The priest Julio at 7pm mass at San Julian said that snow is hitting this region on Sunday.  Apparently the french guy in Castrojeriz and Ramon had the same -virus of the camino-as pati calls it.  Don't worry, right now, I'm very healthy and there is still a huge smile on my face!

Day 16 Poblacion

Uneventful easy walk to Fromista and Poblacion. Freezing thick fog in the morning. Walking through it, my backpack came out frosted. Started warming up around 1. Even the pavement stones in the square were slippery and icy at 1.
The church (11th c) in Fromista all the tourists visit as the best example of Romanesque architecture is OK, but maybe I'm just jaded after visiting so many other churches along the Camino (11th-16th c). It definitely has been extensively restored and is in the best condition I've seen of churches its age. It has been deconsecrated, so doesn't have that holy atmosphere. Im always unsure about what to think of deconsecreated spaces like this and the jerome monastery  cloister space in lisbon, which i thought was really superb manueline architecture, but now feel like museums. There was a huge group of Spanish tourists I walked through and one old lady came up to me, clasped my hands, and said buen Camino slowly, the way you would say something to someone who doesn't speak your language. It was kind of funny, but said thank you since she seemed kind. I said buenos dias to the people, but most just stared, deciding amongst themselves what ethnicity I was, not asking. Meh, not like I had the energy to walk backwards and enter the convo anyway. Always walking forwards. Heh. And I was hungry.
Stopped walking early enough to enjoy a few hours of warm sun where I read, prayed and listened to the birds chirping and eating berries, all the while sitting. Yay sitting.
Albergue tonight with one other person, an Italian Franciscan brother currently living in San sebastian. Albergue has no heating-boy am I glad for my sleeping bag. The brother's genius idea for heat - boiling water for steam. Helped a bit. As soon as the sun was setting, I hopped into my sack to just warm up and chill before dinner. The brother and I swapped stories and then went to the bar for hot chocolate. Very interesting how he's a movie critic, teacher and played soccer. He recommended some nice chapels and holy places to visit along the Camino. He wants to buy me breakfast and then pray his special rosary mysteries with me while we walk the beginning of tomorrow's Camino. Then he's off to Burgos to wrap up his pilgrimage, so bye bye. One thing he said that is interesting-he recommends 2 experiences to his youth. 1 - the Camino to know and understand yourself. 2 - volunteering in Calcutta with the sisters of charity for outward service to others. If you're not praying there, you're dead.

My Camino

They say everyone's Camino is different, just like how everyone's life is different. As I hear homilies given during masses at churches along the Camino, I hear the fathers use the word Camino a lot when talking about how one should lead one's life.

My Camino so far I think has reflected pieces of my past and present. So far, there have been 2 moments when I have not wanted to walk and asked myself why: day 12 and 13, moments of spiritual and physical darkness, when I am pushed near the limits of what I can handle. Will the Camino also suggest a possible future?

Strangely Good Weather

I don't want to jinx anything, but the weather I've had so far the entire Camino has been strangely very good. Locals in all the places I've passed through say this is very rare at this time of year. Usually there is snow, and sometimes lots, and it is colder. An Italian couple that passed through Zubiri the day after myself actually saw snow fall. Lord, thank you and continue guiding my steps!

Day 15 Itero de Vega

Ran to 8:30 am mass at the same convent as yesterday. Takes 15 minutes from the municipal albergue. One layer of pants is not enough. My face felt like it would freeze off. The priest presiding was from Benin, said the opening for me in English and also had me introduce myself to all the sisters after mass. I wanted to give something back to the sisters at the convent in castrojeriz for their kindness by buying some of their sweets they make. Yea they sell yummy baked goods and candies! Their punos de San Francisco looked particularly tasty. After mass was exposition and it didn't look like anybody was leaving to go about their other duties. I rang the doorbell anyway to try to at least donate something, but no one answered, and there are no slots around for donativos . I felt like i just received so much from them and could give back absolutely nothing. So decided to just gratefully accept the blessings. It was 9:30. I needed to get my mochila and walk through more meseta.

I left my glasses in the albergue. Now, it's impossible to walk in the dark. They were my lightest and favorite kate spade glasses too. Crushed. OK, you may think: why did you take such nice glasses with you? They were the most comfortable.

I decided to stop in Itero de Vega at 2 for the night since if it got dark I wouldn't be able to really see without my regular glasses. No way i could do 16 miles in 3-4 hours. At least i didn't want to. The bar owner called the albergue and the hospitalero said he couldn't find them. I decided to check my bag 1 more time. Stupid me. Hah. I found them. I cracked up. It's OK. I got to play with a puppy here and just enjoy the warm sun that is usually too hot when walking, but perfect when sitting around lounging on the steps. Sleeping here anyway and catching up on my writing and using wifi. I decided on this albergue fitero because I saw the cute puppy 1st, 2nd it was recommended by the bar owner in hontanas, and 3rd I actually saw the lady owner riding a bike and had greeted her on my way into town, not knowing who she was.

Day 14 Hontanas

Kind town I stopped by for comida. Bar owner lady was nice and wished me buen Camino. Another lady chatted with me a bit and told me to enjoy the Camino. She wondered if I wasn't lonely walking by myself, but I relish the opportunity.